Such Good Dogs: loose leash walking

Showing posts with label loose leash walking. Show all posts

Monday, January 8, 2018

Heel

Above is an instructional video on how to teach your dog a proper "Heel." Below I have included more information on how to teach this. Remember that Heel means the dog is in a specific position. Heel is not something that should be used constantly on your every day walks. Your dog needs the opportunity to explore their surroundings. For every day walking, use "Loose Leash Walking."

Heel:

The Heel position is about the dog staying close to the handler and paying close attention. We will start with the Basic Heel position, the Stationary Heel.

To do this, we will food lure the dog into the Heel position at our left side. Use your left hand to food lure the dog into the position. If you need, take a step back with your left leg to encourage the dog to move. Once the dog is in the Heel position, practice a Sit and Look.

Moving Heel:

Food lure the dog several times while backing up.
Food lure the dog, now turn your body so the dog is now on the left side in Heel position (use the treat in your left hand).

Always begin and end every Heel exercise with a Sit in the Heel position.

When you stop moving forward, move your baited hand UP slightly to initiate the Sit position.

As you are moving forward, the treat should be held up slightly from the dog so she is looking for it. Gradually progress to moving your hand all the way up to the Look position.

Loose Leash Walking:

Loose leash walking (LLW) means that a dog walks nicely, not pulling on the leash, and not completely all over the place. LLW is not the same thing as Heel. To teach a proper Heel, you must first teach LLW.

Consistency is very important when teaching LLW. Doing this technique is actually very easy, but does require a LOT of patience. Remember to stay calm. If you are calm and consistent, your dog will be walking nicely on a leash in about a week.

To begin, go out for a walk with your regular 4-6 foot leash and buckle collar properly fitted to your dog’s neck (so they can’t slip out). As soon as there is tension on the leash, you have two options:

When the dog pulls: 1) Stop and wait for the DOG to move in a way that releases the tension. When s/he does, continue walking.

2) Say “Let’s Go!” and walk off in the opposite direction.

Wednesday, March 22, 2017

Trainer Tip Video: Walking a scared or timid dog

Today's Trainer Tip Video:
How to walk a scared or timid dog. Featuring Sherman, the bulldog.

When it comes to a dog that is scared, timid, or unsure, the most important thing you need is patience. You must be patient and allow the dog to take extra time in exploring a new place or moving out into the world. Be sure to encourage the dog with any movement forward or movement towards whatever they may be scared of. Only use "baby talk" when the dog is doing what you like. Remember that any time you reward a dog (which baby talk is a reward), you are letting the dog know you like the behavior they are doing. This is why you should NEVER "baby talk" a dog that is scared. By saying "its ok, its ok" you are actually unintentionally encoring the dog to continue the scared behavior. Obviously this is not what you want.
For more information on this,
please review What's rewarding to Dogs

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3 Things on your body that are Rewarding to Dogs:

1. Voice

2. Eye Contact

3. Touch

Anytime you engage your dog in one of these things, you are rewarding them and encouraging whatever behavior they are currently doing. This is important to keep in mind so you do not unintentionally reward bad or unwanted behaviors.

Example: when a dog jumps up on you to greet you, the proper thing to do is cross your arms and turn your back while saying nothing.

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When using the leash in training a scared or timid dog, be very careful how you do so. Never just pull on the leash and drag the dog while not releasing the tension on the leash. What you want to teach any dog about walking on a leash is that a loose leash is good and pulling or tension on the leash is bad. So when walking a scared dog, you want to pull the leash just enough until the dog starts moving forward on their own. As soon as that happens, be sure to release the tension on the leash. By doing this, we are communicating with the dog that we like that he is moving forward. However if you continue to pull on the leash and there is always tension, the dog will never learn how to move forward on his own.

Related Blog Links:
Trainer Tips Video: How to Walk your dog on a leash
Common Training Terms
Training Terms Help

Trainer Tips--Pulling towards an object on Leash

Breed of the Month: Bulldog
Proper Leadership
Other Helpful Commands
Reward Marker or telling your dog "Good"

Wednesday, February 15, 2017

Trainer Tip Video: How to Walk your Dog on a Leash

Today's Trainer Tip:

How to properly walk your dog on a Leash.

Loose Leash Walking:

When the dog pulls: 1) Stop and wait for the DOG to move in a way that releases the tension. When s/he does, continue walking.

2) Say “Let’s Go!” and walk off in the opposite direction.

It is best to try and do option #1 as much as possible. Be sure that when you stop and wait, you do not move in a way that is releasing the tension on the leash…the dog must do it.

REMEMBER: Patience! Patience! Patience!

Saturday, January 31, 2015

BML1--Class #2

Basic Manners -- Level One, Class #2

Such Good Dogs Basic Manners Class #2

Commands & Cues:

All commands or cue words like Sit and Come should be said ONE TIME and ONE TIME ONLY. Never repeat your command word. Instead give your No Reward Marker, move positions, and then try again.

Marker Word:

Use your chosen marker word: “Good” or “Yes” (or the Clicker).

This is the word (or sound) that says to a dog, “Yes! That is exactly what I wanted you to do!” and is then followed with a reward.

No Reward Marker:

This is what we do when the dog does not do what we are looking for. Try using an “Uh-oh” or “Eh-eh.” This will let the dog know that the behavior just performed is not what we wanted, while still encouraging the dog to continue to try. After using the NRM, physically move places (both you and the dog should move) to help “re-set” the training, then try again. Never repeat a command more than once.

Food Lure:

This is something we use to teach many new behaviors and commands. A food lure involves getting the dog to follow your baited hand into a desired position.

Look / Watch Me:

We want a dog who looks to us for direction and permission. Having a dog that is well focused on the owner will give you control over many situations. This is the exercise you will practice when your dog becomes distracted during training. This is meant to help focus (or re-focus) the dog back to the owner.

To do this, we place the treat directly in the dog’s nose then raise it straight up next to our eye, while standing back up. As you raise your hand give your command word, “Look.” Eventually we want the dog to look directly in our eyes, but to begin with, it they look anywhere in the general area of your head, say your “Good” and give the treat.

If your dog remains in position but is not looking at you, do NOT repeat your arm movements or verbal command. Instead, hold the treat in position next to your eye while looking at the dog and WAIT. You will wait 30 seconds to a minute. If the dog still has not looked, give your No Reward Marker or “Uh-oh,” move positions, take a breath, and then try again.

Watch a VIDEO teaching the "Look/ Watch Me" Cue in Basic Manners dog training class.

Come when Called:

The Rules:

1. Always have a leash (or fenced-in area).

2. When you say come, you have to see it happen.

3. NEVER punish a dog for coming to you.

The Steps:

Say the dog’s name, and Come. ONE TIME ONLY.
Have a party.
Lure the dog back to you.

When first teaching a dog Come when called, we start with step 1 & 3. Standing directly in front of the dog (No distance), put the treat in the dog’s nose, say the dog’s name and Come (one time), then quickly back up a few steps. When the dog follows, stop, say “Good!” and give the treat. (Explained & Demonstrated in training.)

Loose Leash Walking:

When the dog pulls: 1) Stop and wait for the DOG to move in a way that releases the tension. When s/he does, continue walking.

2) Say “Let’s Go!” and walk off in the opposite direction.

It is best to try and do option #1 as much as possible. Be sure that when you stop and wait, you do not move in a way that is releasing the tension on the leash…the dog must do it.

REMEMBER: Patience! Patience! Patience!

Meeting new friends.

Boone, Koa, & Maybe...these three are excited to play!

Tuesday, July 22, 2014

Basic Manners Review

SGDs has two new dog training classes coming up soon. First is our Basic Manners Level One dog training class. Below is a review of this class for anyone thinking about attending. This review is also a check list of the things your dog should be familiar with before taking SGDs Level Two class. This is a list for review. If you are unfamiliar with these Basic Commands, please look in our blog for previous, detailed explanations.

Basic Manners Review

3 Things on your body that are Rewarding to Dogs:

Voice
Eye Contact
Touch

Anytime you engage your dog in one of these things, you are basically rewarding whatever behavior they are doing at that time. This is important to keep in mind so we do not unintentionally reward bad behaviors.
You must catch a bad behavior within 2 seconds to change the behavior.

Marker Word: “Good” or “Yes” or the clicker
This is what we say to mark the behavior we wanted. Saying this is telling the dog, “that was exactly what I was looking for!” The more you mark good behavior in a positive way, the more your dog will want to engage in good behavior.

No Reward Marker: “uh-oh” or “eh-eh”
This is to let the dog know that this is not what I was looking for you to do now. We want to mark the behavior as not what we wanted, but we want to do so in a way that will still encourage the dog to want to learn. When using an “uh-oh” while training, remember to take a step away from the dog to help “re-set” the brain, then try again. Remember to only say cues ONE TIME, then wait 30 seconds to a minute before giving your “uh-oh” (give the dog a chance to make the right decision).

Basic Manners Training Review:

Look/ Watch Me:
We practice this command because we want a dog who looks to us for permission and direction. Practice this cue both the simple way (directly from the dog’s nose up to your eye), and with the T position (start the same, then when the treat comes to your eye, move both arms out into a T position).

Come When Called:
The Rules:

Safety first. Always have a leash or be in an enclosed area.
When you say come, you have to see it happen.
NEVER punish a dog for coming to you.

The Steps:

Say the dog’s name and Come, one time only.
Have a party.
Lure (or gently lead) the dog back to you.

Loose Leash Walking:
When your dog pulls on the leash, you have two options…
1. Stop and wait for the dog to move in a way that releases the tension of the leash.
2. Say “let’s go” and go off promptly in the opposite direction.

Leave-It:
This should mean to a dog, turn away from that, don’t pay attention to that, leave that thing alone. Remember that whatever you are asking your dog to Leave It, he should NOT get that item at the time you are practicing the Leave-It. Never practice Leave-It/ Take-It (this can teach a dog to leave something alone for a second, then take it anyway). We want our dogs to know that when I say to leave something alone, you don’t touch it ever.
Making Leave-It harder: 1. Treat in closed hand, 2. Treat in partially open hand,
3. Treat in open hand, 4. Treat in open hand on the ground, 5. Treat on the ground.

Stay:
Means to your dog, stay in this position until I come back to release you. This is not the same thing as Wait.
There are 3 parts to the Stay Cue:
1. Duration (Time)
2. Distance
3. Distractions

Drop It/ Give:
When teaching this cue, we must be aware of possible Resource Guarding. Remember to NEVER steal things from your dog’s mouth. To teach Drop It/ Give:

Have the dog have a toy in his mouth that is not of super high value. Once the dog has the toy and is engaged with it, present a treat or reward of higher value than the toy, as the dog drops the toy, say “Drop.” It is very important to give the reward to the dog AT THE SAME TIME as you pick up the dropped toy. Do not let your dog get into the habit of snatching the reward then snatching the toy back up.

Sit, Down, & Stand:
All these positions should already be well practiced. Dogs should know the verbal and hand signals for each command.

(For more Help, also see Common Training Terms.)

If you are interested in signing up for one of our group classes (or any other service),

please contact us at: Suchgooddogs@gmail.com

Or give us a call at: 808-463-4684

Tuesday, June 17, 2014

Animal Behavior College Mentor Training--Part Two

As a graduate of Animal Behavior College (ABC), I was very excited when they asked me to be apart of their mentor training program. As part of the program to become a dog trainer, ABC requires both book knowledge and hands-on training. The latter is where I come in.

(First see Animal Behavior College Mentor Training--Part One)

PART TWO:

Class may be over, but my Mentee also accompanied me on several private training appointments. During these appointments Jess was required to watch, participate, and eventually help teach.

For this private lesson, Jess was asked to go over the Leave-It command with Melissa and her dog Lucky. Melissa has been training with Such Good Dogs with her two dogs Lucky and Hazel. In this lesson we focused on just Lucky. Since Hazel has come into the picture (about a year ago), some of Lucky's bad behaviors have gotten worse. One thing we have been working on is Lucky's aggression towards men. With the addition of the new dog came a power struggle in the house. Although Melissa is doing amazingly better about being a good pack leader, there are still things to work on. One helpful command to practice is the Leave-It. When properly taught, this command can be used to tell your dog to leave anything alone, from people to other dogs, or even small animals and random trash. Properly teaching a good Leave-It command can help keep yourself, your pet, and everyone else safe.

You will notice that Jess seems much more confident and calm. She is standing close to the dog while still remaining upright, and her overall body language has improved. Also notice the close attention the dog is paying to her. This is something we have been working on improving with the owner. I am very proud to see Jess jump right in and take command over this dog. She is projecting a calm and confident energy. Doing this during training will help you build a better bond with your dog, help your dog pay attention, and also encourage your dog to learn. Seems simple right? It is. The problem comes because as humans our emotions are easily swayed. Don't let that anger or frustration get the best of you. Take a deep breath, calm down, then continue your training.

Finally Jess is asked to observe the client perform the Leave-It command she just demonstrated. While watching the client, it is important for Jess to notice what she does right, but also where she could use improvement. Jess was correct to remind the client to only repeat the command one time. This is important for any cue or command you are teaching. Say it ONE TIME, and ONE TIME ONLY. Repeating a command only teaches a dog that maybe the 5th or 10th time I say it means do it. Say your command one time only. If the dog does not comply, wait 30 seconds, then give your "Uh-oh" (No Reward Marker), move positions (this helps re-set the training in the dog's mind), then try again.

In this picture, Jess works with Hazel (Melissa's other dog). Hazel is young and very high-energy. One of the issues Melissa has with Hazel is her need to want to chase after things when out on a walk. She enjoys picking up anything from leaves and branches, to random trash and dead animals. We will again use the Leave-it command to practice getting Hazel to leave things as they pass. Jess assists by walking by Melissa and Hazel and dropping random plant objects.

Finally, Jess is asked to teach several basic manners commands. In this first picture, Jess demonstrates to a client how to do a proper Look. Here you can see the dog looking directly at Jess. This is exactly what we want. At this point, Jess will give her Reward Marker, "Good!" then treat.

Here Jess is teaching the same Look command. Jess is observing the client performing the cue. As you can see, the dog is looking at the owner, which is what we want to happen. Again, the client will give their "Good," then reward.

Although Jessica successfully performed and taught all commands, I will not show all of them here. Instead I will end with one of the most important things you can teach your dog, a reliable Come When Called. This is something every owner should strive for. After discussing the 3 Rules and 3 Steps to teaching a dog Come when Called, Jessica demonstrates with a game called Puppy Ping Pong. For this game, you need 2 people and one dog. Each person will take turns practicing calling the dog over. After the dog successfully has performed the Come cue, the person will practice one or two other commands. These can include: look, sit, down, up, and any tricks your dog may know. The point of this game is to reinforce the Come when Called, but it is also an easy and helpful way to add an auto-sit after a come when called. First practice and reward the dog for performing the Come command, then immediately ask the dog to sit every time. After several repetitions, the dog will automatically start to sit after they come to you.

Overall my experience training an ABC student trainer was a pleasant one. Although breaking my leg in the middle of our training definitely caused set-backs, we were still able to complete Jessica's training. I'm very happy and proud to have been a part of this experience and I wish Jess all the luck and success in the future. With a bit more practice and confidence, I believe Jessica has the potential to become a very good dog trainer.

A special thank you to Animal Behavior College for the opportunity.

Monday, June 16, 2014

Animal Behavior College Mentor Training--Part One

As a graduate of Animal Behavior College (ABC), I was very excited when they asked me to be apart of their mentor training program. As part of the program to become a dog trainer, ABC requires both book knowledge and hands-on training. The latter is where I come in. So a few months ago, I got to meet my Mentee, Jessica.

PART ONE:

For the first part of her hands-on training, Jess brought her dog, Kaiko, to one of my Basic Manners Dog Training classes. She took the class as any other client would. Basic Manners is a 6-week, one hour per week class. Each week the class learns new things to take home and practice with their dogs. Handouts are given at the end of each week, and a certificate is given upon completion. Items covered in the Basic Manners class include: Come when called, Look/ Watch Me, Loose Leash Walking, Sit & Auto-sit, Down, Stand/ Up, Stay, Leave-it, and Drop-it.

During this class, Jess learned what it is like to be in a group class and take direction from an instructor. Having participated in this class, Jess has learned not only how to better work with her own dog, but also got to see how a large training class is properly run. A good instructor should be able to keep everyone under control and on-task.

First we must work on a student's technique in working with the dog.

These first few pictures are the first day Jess worked with her dog in class. Remember, your body language when training a dog is very important. You can see in these pictures that Jess is not only back too far from the dog, but is also arching her back outwards and away. In the dog world, this makes you a weak energy. To correct this problem, she should step in and stand straight up. In this first picture, you will also notice the leash is tight. You want your leash short but loose when working with your dog.

Always remember to stand tall and calm, but not stiff. When working with your dog, stand directly in front of them. There should be no more than 12-18 inches between you and your dog.

In the second picture, you can see Jess is still standing too far away, but has loosened the leash.

One of the most important things students learn in Basic Manners Dog Training is Loose Leash Walking (LLW). This basically means the dog is walking nicely on a leash, not pulling, and not all over the place. (Also visit our Trainer Tips for more help). To train a dog how to Loose Leash Walk, you basically have two options. When the dog pulls you 1) stop and wait for the dog to move in a way that releases the tension on the leash, or 2) say "Let's go!" and walk off in the opposite direction. Here you can see Jess demonstrating the stop and wait technique for LLW. If you are consistent in teaching LLW to your dog, you will have a dog that is a pleasure to walk with in a short amount of time. But remember to be consistent! Letting your dog just pull every now and then sets back your training.

The first class with owners and their dogs can very hectic and stressful. This is to be expected. Many new dogs are coming together for the first time and can get easily over-excited. People are also excited and sometimes nervous about what might happen. As class progresses, a good trainer will make all students feel comfortable and welcome, while still helping them to improve their training techniques with their dog. In these next pictures, if you look at the body language in both Jess and Kaiko, they seem slightly more relaxed. Noticing little things like this is important.

This next picture is Jess working with her mom and Kaiko. Part of being consistent is making sure that everyone in the household has all the same rules, all the same cue words, all the time. Not being consistent with your dog confuses her, and sets back training. I highly encourage families to have all member present during training. It is important that everyone is on the same page when it comes to training. If you have a large family, it may be helpful to keep a list of rules, cue words, and commands you use for everyone to see. Practice training together. Help each other. Remember not to get frustrated. Stay calm and make it fun.

As class progresses week by week, participants succeed in some areas and have trouble in others. As a trainer, it is vitally important to help correct the weak parts, but also point out the things that people do well. We do positive reinforcement training for both dog, and human. Clients training their dogs must also be told when they do things well and encouraged to continue. In this picture, you can see that Jess has gotten much closer when working with the dog, and has much better body language.

Sadly, 6 weeks goes by very fast and class is over. Above are the graduates of Basic Manners Level One, April 2014. Jess is on the left, with other class participants to the right. Clients are always proud and excited to receive their certificates.

Continue reading Animal Behavior College Mentor Training--Part Two.

Monday, October 14, 2013

Basic Manners Class #2

I'm very excited to have started a new Basic Manners class on the West Side recently. Although I always enjoy classes, having an especially large class can be extra fun. This class has 7 dogs in it and everyone is very excited to be here. I always love helping people who are ready and willing to put in the work. Hopefully I will be able to see just how hard they've all been working at this week's class.

Below are some pictures from week two of this Basic Manners class. This is the first time all the dogs get to meet each other, so the energy and excitement of week two is high.
(I was happy my friend was able to stop and take some awesome pictures for me as well.
Thanks Megs!)

Athena describing the first lesson for the day.

Class participants.

Athena working with Keani & mom Barbara

on Loose Leash Walking.

Athena working with Kengie & mom Sanchi.

Athena showing lab, Kuma, how to walk on a leash

with family watching how its done.

Kuma watching Mocha & Kengie say hello.

Hanging out after class.

Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Challenge Accepted

I have been working with a nice couple in Kihei and their puppy, Bala, a Coton de Tulear. He is a very sweet little pup and an amazingly quick learner. I am extremely happy with the amount of work his family has put into training him! Good job guys!

I have been working with Bala and his family for about 2 months now. We have covered all the Basic Manners Obedience training and will soon be moving into more specialized training for Service Dogs. In our most recent appointment this week, the owners wanted to focus on the walk. Upon deciding to go over some Loose Leash Walking skills, I discovered that the owners have been unable to attach the leash to his collar and walk him that way, they have always used his harness. The owners said he would NOT walk if the leash was attached to his collar.

Well, as a trainer, I always love a challenge, so I accepted this one. Although Bala did initially have a negative reaction to the leash being attached to his collar, I worked with the dog and the owners on how to overcome this problem. At some point, for whatever reason, Bala had a negative experience with someone attaching a leash to his collar (this most likely happened before the current owners got the dog). To overcome this negative association, we must build a new, positive association with the leash being attached to the collar. So I repeated the exercise of slowly and calmly attaching the leash to his collar and paid with his favorite cheese every time Bala relaxed a little bit. After about 5 times of repeating this exercise, Bala became much more comfortable with the leash attached directly to his collar.

Then the next step...although we worked on building the positive association with attaching the leash, Bala still, of course, was reluctant to follow us out for a walk. This was to be expected. To overcome this problem we simple keep building the positive association with his favorite thing, cheese. After about 30 seconds of some simple coaxing, Bala began to walk on the leash (attached to his collar instead of the harness) very well. His family was very surprised and amazed that he did so.

This serves as a helpful reminder: No matter what issue you may be having with your dog, no matter how difficult it may seem to overcome, there is always a way to get the dog to do what you want. And that way is positive reinforcement! :)

Tuesday, June 12, 2012

Trainer Tips--Pulling towards an object on Leash

The best way to teach your dog to walk properly on the leash without pulling is to teach your dog Loose Leash Walking (see previous post). Properly walking a dog on a leash means the dog does not pull you; that the leash is loose.

A helpful tip to go along with this is...never let your dog pull you over to anything. If a dog really wants to get to this tree over here and pulls you over to the tree, you just rewarded your dog for pulling. When meeting a new dog, do not let your dog pull you over to greet. The owner must take leadership over the dog. We must communicate to our dogs in a way they understand. Letting your dog pull you over to anything is rewarding them for pulling. Don't do it!

You can see the dog pulling to get to the tree.

Notice how tight the leash is. You do not want this!

Tuesday, January 3, 2012

Foster--Petie, Day 2

Petie was a lot of fun to work with. He is a very excited Lab Mix that just wants to something...anything. Petie picked up training very quickly and very well. He learned the "Down" cue in just two tries, which his fosters could not get him to do. Petie is another great dog that just needs a little more training and a LOT of exercise. Petie's biggest problem is jumping. He has made great progress in learning not to jump when someone turns their back. When we first started training with jumping he would grab onto your back and hold on. He has since improved from that greatly. Once you get Petie properly focused on you, he will do anything you ask.