Breed of the Month--Havanese

Havanese

Color:  All colors
Height:  8.5-11.5 inches
Weight:  7-14 lbs
Life Span:  13-15 years

Breed Health Concerns:  Ear infections, progressive retinal atrophy, juvenile cataracts, congenital deafness, hip dysplasia, patellar luxation.

Coat:  Double coat.  woolly undercoat/ soft, long, flat or curly outercoat.
Country of Origin:  Cuba

Visit the American Kennel Club for breed standards and more information.

Brought from Europe to Cuba in the 17th century, that Havanese is a descendant of a Bichon-type dog.    During the 18th & 19th centuries, the Havanese became a favorite of aristocrats in Cuba.

The Havanese is fond of everyone.  This breed is intelligent and outgoing, and gets along with with all types of pets and people of all ages.  The Havanese has been long associated with being a cherished companion dog.

I had the pleasure of meeting a cute little member of this breed, and I must say, I was quite taken by him!  Cute and cuddly, the Havanese I met made adorable little cooing noises at me to get my attention and love.  Amazing little dogs that I would highly recommend for any dog owner!

Exercise:
The Havanese is always excited to accompany his family anywhere and enjoys socialization and regular exercise.  A good daily walk will keep this breed happy.

Grooming:
The Havanese's long hair needs a lot of regular attention.  Many non-show dog, pet owners, clip their Havanese's hair short.  The hair of this breed rarely sheds and must be brushed out to prevent clots.  Because the Havanese does shed very little, they make an ideal choice for people with allergies.  Special attention should be taken to make sure the hair around the eye stays clean and free from infections.

Training:
The Havanese loves any interaction with his family and therefore thrives on training.  Using positive training methods, this breed learns basic obedience and tricks with ease.

Breed of the Month--Puli

Puli

Color:  Black, white, shades of gray
Height:  Males:  15.5-18 inches/  Females:  14-16.5 inches
Weight:  Males:  28-33 lbs/  Females:  22-28.5 lbs
Life Span:  12-14 years

Breed Health Concerns:  Hip and elbow dysplasia, von Willebrand disease, progressive retinal atrophy, patellar luxation.

Coat:  Double coat, weather resistant.  Dense, soft undercoat.  Dense, fine, soft, coarse, long curly outercoat.  Adult outercoat naturally forms cords.
Country of Origin:  Hungary

Visit the American Kennel Club for breed standards and more information.

Western European sheepherding dogs eventually found their way into Hungary and began breeding with native dogs.  Many wars ravaged the country of Hungary and nearly extinct the Puli.  Emil Raitsits recognized the breed's herding value and began reconstructing the breed in the early 1900s.  Care was taken to preserve the breed's coat, size, and color.  Originally four sized of Puli existed; the most versatile middle size Puli is the true breed of today.

The coat of the Puli helps protect him from the outside elements, predators, and livestock.  The Puli still watches over livestock today, as well as excelling at agility and therapy work.  The Puli makes an exceptional watchdog as he is always focused and interested in getting the job done.  Once the Puli trusts you, you will have a friend for life.  If properly socialized from puppyhood, the Puli will get along with all kinds of other dogs, animals, and people.

Exercise:
The Puli will most likely engage in destructive behavior if not given a daily job to do.  The Puli needs plenty of regular exercise to stay happy.  Puli owners are encouraged to participate in trials and herding tests to give the dog an activity, or "job," to do.

Grooming:
Pulis shed very little.  After 6 months of age the hair will become long enough to form into cords.  Once a Puli has fully corded, coat maintenance is fairly easy.  One must only take a little time to occasionally separate and trim the cords.  Pulis do need regular bathes but can sometimes take a long time to dry, even a day or two.  The coat must only be brushed often if cording is not desired.

Training:
Using positive reinforcement training is a quick easy way to train a Puli.  This breed is eager to please and very responsive.  Early socialization is important to help the breed stay self-confident as an adult.

Breed of the Month--Saint Bernard

Saint Bernard

Color:  White with various red shades, white and brindle, white markings.
Height:  Males:  27.5-35.5 inches/  Females:  25.5-31/5 inches
Weight:  120-200 lbs
Life Span:  8-10 years

Breed Health Concerns:  epilepsy, elbow and hip dysplasia, cardiomyopathy, osteochondritis dissecans, ectropion, and osteosarcoma.

Coat:  Two types:  1) Longhaired:  profuse undercoat/ plain medium-length outercoat,
2)  Shorthaired:  profuse undercoat/ dense, smooth, coarse, close-lying outercoat.
Country of Origin:  Switzerland

Visit the American Kennel Club for breed standards and more information.

This breed worked alongside monks to help people through a dangerous pass between what are now Switzerland and Italy, named the Great St. Bernard Pass, after an Augustine monk, Saint Bernard of Menthon.  The monks and their dogs would travel the pass after heavy storms, searching for possible survivors.  The Saint Bernard made a good draft and guard dog for the monks, and used his keen nose to sniff out survivors.  The Saint Bernard's sheer size aided in his ability to push through large drifts of snow.

The Saint Bernard is noted for being able to tolerate rambunctious children.  He is loyal, tolerant, intelligent, patient, and friendly.

Exercise:
Puppies under 2 years of age should be restricted in activity to help protect their growing bones.  After 2 years of age the Saint Bernard needs regular daily walks.

Grooming:
Both types of coats shed twice yearly.  Weekly brushing is important to maintain the coat; the Saint Bernard should not be bathed unless truly necessary.

Training:
The Saint Bernard must be socialized and taught proper manners from an early age.  These dogs grow quickly and grow to be very large animals.  The breed can be stubborn at times, but is loyal and aims to please.  Positive reinforcement training is recommended.  

Trainer Tips--Keeping pets off furniture.

Have problems keeping your pets off the furniture?  There are many simple, handy things you can purchase or do to help keep your pets off the couch, bed, or counters while you're away.  I would like to remind everyone that these are helpful tools.  Using any of these things should also be accompanied with positive reinforcement training that teaches the dog where he is not to be, and where he should be instead.

As a trainer, I highly recommend you do not allow your pets on the furniture.  When first bringing a new puppy or dog into your home, it is vitally important to establish leadership.  Not allowing your pet on the places that humans usually rest is one easy way to help do that.  Be consistent.  If you do not allow your pet on the furniture, then that is the rule, NO exceptions.  For people who do wish to have their pets on the furniture, they should only be allowed up when invited by the human.  The dog should not make the decision to get on the furniture, the human makes the decision to invite them up.

If your dog (or cat) likes resting with you on the couch or bed and they are not allowed (or you are training them to be off these surfaces), one important thing you should have is a place that they should be on.  This can be their very own pet bed, blanket, or area located near where you rest.  Pets have a need to be close to us and rest near where we do.  So placing a proper resting place near your couch and bed for your pet to go to can help train them out of going on the furniture.  We are redirecting the bad behavior of going on the couch, into a good behavior of laying on the pet bed.

Luke sharing a bed with Nekita.

Along with having a proper resting place for your pet, you should train your pet to go to this place.  When the pet jumps up on the couch, say "Uh-oh" and lure or gently lead them to their bed using a command like "bed" or "place."  Remember to stay calm.  When they reach the pet bed, mark the behavior with a "Good!" then reward.  Rewards can be many different things, and are different for each dog.  Some common rewards include: petting, praise, toys, and food.

Now onto the good stuff…

Below are some various helpful aids and things you can do to help keep your pets off the furniture during the training process.  Basically you want to make the bed or couch or counter top an area that is unpleasant for the pet to rest on.  This can be done in several ways.

Store Bought Options:
Pet stores all over have various deterrents you can use to help keep pets off furniture.

This one can be thrown on top of almost anything.

The plastic pokes up, making it uncomfortable for your pet to lay on.

This is a pet deterrent that makes crinkle sounds if touched. 

Many dogs will be deterred by the loud noise.

Some of these also include a pressure-sensitive shrieking alarm.

(Never use these with a fearful or anxious dog.)

There are various sprays you can apply to areas or furniture to help deter your pet.

Bitter Spray is usually used to deter chewing,

but can, in some cases, help deter pets from certain areas as well.

Homemade Options:

There are many every day items around your house you can use to help deter your pets from certain surfaces in your home.

Booby Traps:

Use empty soda bottles, or empty cans filled with coins (and taped back up) to booby trap forbidden areas.  When the pet jumps up, he will be startled by the noise and leave the area.

You can use every day tin foil and place it over forbidden surfaces.  The crinkly noise it makes will deter pets from resting on this area.

I have also used tape (scotch or masking) and rolled the tape into a loop with the sticky side out.  Then barely stick the tape to the forbidden surface.  When your pet comes to the area, he will get sticky tape stuck to him and leave the area.  (This is especially helpful for cats or small dogs who like to get on counters.)

Remember prevention and management.  It is helpful to make the forbidden area less accessible.  Push in chairs around tables, move the coffee table into the couch before you leave, or close off access to rooms. 

If you teach your dog what behaviors are acceptable, and reward them for doing good behaviors, your dog will want to continue to engage in good behaviors.  Remember to mark the good behavior!  If you walk by and the dog is lying nicely on his bed, give him a calm "Good!" and reward with some soft, calm petting.  When you notice the dog going to the forbidden area, clap your hands to snap the dog out of the intended action, then redirect the dog to the proper resting place, the dog bed.  When the dog goes to the bed, mark the behavior with your "Good!" and reward.

Don't forget to give your dog proper exercise every day!

Breed of the Month--Afghan Hound

Afghan Hound

Color:  All colors.

Height:  Males:  26-29 inches/ Females:  24-27 inches

Weight:  Males:  60lbs/ Females:  50lbs

Life Span:  12-14 years

Breed Health Concerns:  Allergies, cataracts, chylothorax, bloat, hip dysplasia, and cancer.

Coat:  Fine, silky, and thick, with a top layer of long hair (may have lower jaw beard).

Country of Origin:  Afghanistan

Visit the American Kennel Club for breed standards and more information.

This beautiful sight hound comes from Afghanistan, India, and Pakistan.  The breed was created to be a guardian and protector to both livestock and humans alike.  The breed was developed to be an independent think, with a coat that withstand harsh environments, both cold and hot.  The Afghan Hound did not leave the region until the turn of the 20th century.  The breed is now prized all over the United States for his beauty and grace he shows in the competition ring.

Although the Afghan Hound has great beauty and grace, he is a goofball at heart.  The Afghan Hound is determined and athletic, and will follow his owner anywhere.  Because he is a dog that hunts by sight, care should be taken around smaller animals.  

Exercise:

Because the Afghan Hound was bred for hunting quick moving prey, this dog needs to get outside and get plenty of exercise often.   The Afghan Hound will thrive on some quality play time (in a secured area) along with several long walks a day.  

Grooming:

For a first-time Afghan Hound owner, a professional groomer is a must.  Because of their think coats, intensive grooming is required.  The coat of the Afghan can only be brushed after being washed so as not to damage the hair.  Extra care must be taken to ensure the dog's long ear hair stays out of food and water bowls.

Training:

Socialization at an early age is especially important to reduce the Afghan Hound's large prey drive.  Although very intelligent, the independent Afghan can be difficult to train.  For best training results, be sure to use positive-based training methods.  The Afghan Hound excels at many events including:  dog shows, agility, obedience, and lure coursing.

Trainer Tips--Dog Parks...Friend or Foe?

Dog Parks...Friend or Foe?

As a dog trainer, people often ask me many questions about training and different dog situations.  One that often gets asked is how I feel about dog parks.  In response to this question, I'm writing this month's Trainer Tips about dog parks.

If you're a fan of this blog, you know I often write about socialization and how important it is to properly socialize your dog.  Proper socialization does include introducing your dog to as many new situations, new people, and new dogs as possible.  However, all of these things should be done in a proper environment and at the dog's pace (see previous post).  Let me be perfectly clear, it is your job to be the leader in your home and elsewhere.  That means it is YOUR job to protect your dog from potentially dangerous situations and YOUR job to keep your dog from being the one that creates any such situation.  (See previous post on Leadership.)  Keep watch of other dogs and notice their Body Language to gage potential threats.

So how do dog parks fit in?

Generally speaking, I do NOT recommend taking your dog to a dog park on a regular basis.  The reason I say this is because dog parks are very chaotic environments with little or no rules.  Most people who bring their dogs to the park on a regular basis make the dog park the only regular exercise their dog gets, and generally have little to no control over their pet.  This is very bad!  A dog should actually be exercised BEFORE being taken to a dog park.  Why?  Well because when a dog is full of energy and excitement, they are more likely to engage in bad behaviors, especially if they are simply set free to do whatever they want in an chaotic environment with unstable dogs.  A huge part of my training program focuses on what I call Energy Balance.  If you have ever been to a dog park, you know that the energy and atmosphere of the park is chaotic and crazy.  This is NOT an environment I recommend.  Because the environment of the dog park is so chaotic, dogs can and will easily pick up bad behaviors. Further more, many dog owners that take their dogs to the dog park should NOT be around other dogs.

FOE!

There is an unofficial dog park in Honokowai that many people go to (including several friends and clients of mine).  I have also been to this dog park with my two dogs on a few occasions to check it out.    I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS DOG PARK!  This dog park has had several instances of red flag warnings.  There is an owner that takes her dog to this park on a regular basis that should never be there.  Her dog has attacked at least two dogs that I know of, and bitten at least one owner when going for a third dog.  This owner picked up her little dog to get it away from the oncoming attack and the dog attacking jumped up and bit the woman's arm instead.  This woman had to have several stitches.  This same dog (who is not a very large dog) tried going after one of my dogs as well, Caravaggio.  Lucky for me, my dogs are both trained very well and will not engage in a fight unless absolutely necessary.  So this little attack dog kept lunging at Caravaggio for at least an hour one day.  Caravaggio did exactly what he was taught and moved away from the dog when it tried to attack and let me deal with the situation.  Funny enough I left the park with my two dogs for about 15 minutes and returned.  Upon our return this same dog came running and jumped up on my car trying to get at the dogs through the window.  Ridiculous!  The owner, of course, had no control.
This is just one example of a bad apple at the dog park.

Dora getting trampled at the Honokowai dog park.

There is also a high likelihood that your dog will pick up bad habits at a dog park.  Some examples of common bad behaviors dogs easily pick up at the dog park include:  barking, digging, toy possession, aggression, and not listening to the owner.  My best client and the dog I'm most proud of training is named Dora.  She is now about a year and a half.  I have been training with her and her owner since she was about 5 months old.  Dora and her owner made amazing progress and she has turned out to be a great dog.  However, about 6 months ago, her owner started taking her to the dog park mentioned above.  Since then Dora has picked up several bad habits that we must now address and train her out of.  She was also recently attacked (2 weeks ago), and received several puncture wounds on her back foot.

Here's a good example of a dog that should not be at the dog park.

As you can see, the owner has no control.

My other dog, Nekita, was also attacked at a dog park a few years back.  She was so severally attacked and injured at the time, that she became dog aggressive for a short while after the attack.  We had to put in some extra time and training to get her back to her usual self.

Another little-known danger is poison.  There have been various news reports over the last several years about people who do not like dogs leaving poison or toys laced with poison at dog parks.  I recently saw a story like this where a dog picked up a toy left at the dog park that someone had poisoned and passed away only an hour later.  People leave all kinds of toys at dog parks and most dogs will go up to a toy and pick it up without hesitation.  Although this danger is less likely to happen than others, it is still a possibility.

I do not share these things to scare you, but to make you realize just what you may be getting yourself into when attending a dog park.  This is not to say that all dog parks are bad all the time.  In fact I do believe that a dog park CAN be a fun place for you to socialize your dog.  The thing is, you have to really be aware of what's going on around you.  Don't become the owner that just brings your dog to the park every day and lets them do whatever they want!  If you are interested in attending a dog park, do your homework.  Go there without your dog once first at the busiest time (usually in the afternoon after work), and see what the environment is really like.  If you don't like what you see, don't return with your dog.  You can also try going to the dog park at less popular times.  At these times, the dog park will not only be safer for both you and your dog, but more conducive to training and socialization for your dog.

TRY A LESS BUSY TIME
Try the dog park when there is only one or two other dogs around.  This environment is much less hectic and better for your dog.  This will also allow you to easily assess the situation and meet other dogs and owners.  (Below:  Wicket & mom playing at the dog park at a quiet time.

FRIEND.

Overall, if you do end up taking your dog to a dog park, please be aware of what is going on around you.  Watch your dog at all times and keep them away from any potentially harmful dogs or situations.  Also beware of toys.  MANY dogs are possessive over toys, especially around large amounts of other dogs.  Two dogs going after the same toy can easily trigger a bad situation if one or both dogs are not properly trained and socialized.  The time Nekita got attacked in a dog park was because another dog wanted her ball.  When she got to the ball first, the other dog attacked her.  I have seen this same thing happen multiple times at the dog park.  Even if you don't bring your dog's toys, there is always someone who does.

The last reason I do not recommend dog parks is the lazy factor.  In my experience, most people who regularly bring their dogs to the dog park do so because they refuse to put any energy into exercising their dogs.  The best exercise for a dog is proper walk or hike.  And when I say proper, I mean walking on a leash properly, not pulling the owner everywhere.  The owner should be in charge of the walk or hike, NOT the dog.  A proper walk is the best exercise because the dog is not only getting the physical exercise they require, but mental activity as well.  A good owner will properly physically AND mentally exercise their dog.  Most people who bring their dogs to the dog park every day have not put in the time and effort to train their dogs on how to walk on a leash, and therefore take the lazy way out...the dog park.


TRY ANOTHER ACTIVITY!
There are so many activities we can do with our dogs, that I don't even need to take my dogs to such a place.  Go for a walk, go for a hike, go swimming, play fetch.  There are so many other forms of activities that are much healthier for both you and your dog.  So stop being the lazy owner that does nothing with your dog and get out on a new adventure!  You're dog will thank you!
Plus, its fun and even easier to make friends with other dogs at these activities!

Caravaggio, Dora, & Nekita swimming.

Kana & Nekita relaxing on the beach.

Kahiko & Dora hanging out after a hike.

Caravaggio & Jack at the beach playing fetch.

TAKE A TRAINING CLASS

Still need a way to make some new doggie friends?  A great way to meet new dogs and new owners is to take a dog training class or activity.  In every class I have taught, at lease someone makes a new friend that they keep in contact with even after the class is over.  Such Good Dogs also offers socialization hours, where you and your dog can meet new dogs that are properly trained in a healthy environment.

Kuma watching Mocha & Kengie say hello

in their first Basic Manners Class.

Splash & Eku became fast friends.

Budi'i & Henry playing after our class.

Lahaina Basic Manners Class starts Oct 2nd

Such Good Dog's will be starting new Basic Manners - Level One dog training classes.
This class will be held in Lahaina.
Wednesdays 5-6 p.m.
(October 2nd - November 6th)

Contact Such Good Dogs to sign up now!!!!
808-463-4684
suchgooddogs@gmail.com
(Email us with you name, phone #, email address, dog's name, breed, & age.)

Basic Manners Level One is a 6-week, one hour per week class.  Each week you will learn new things to take home and practice with your dog.  Basic Manners is taught using positive reinforcement training, combined with energy balance.  Items covered in this Level One class include:  Food Lure, Marker Word, Watch Me/ Look, Come when called, Loose Leash Walking, Impulse Control, Sit & Auto-sit, Down, Stand, Stay, Drop It, and Leave It.

The cost for this class is $150 CASH.  Please bring this with you the first day of class, along with your pet's vet records.  I do not need to keep any vet records, but I DO need to see them.  Your pet should be up to date on all shots including Parvo, Distemper, and Rabies (if your pet is from outside of Hawaii).  These vaccinations are required prior to beginning training.  Please check your records before the class begins to be sure your pet is up to date on everything.  Also please have your vet's information (clinic name, phone #, etc), as you will need this to properly fill out training paperwork.

For the first week's class you do NOT bring your dogs.  This first class is information, and the most important class.  Please bring paper and a pen for taking notes.  Handouts will be given each week at the end of class.

ANY dog breed of ANY age is welcome (and encouraged) to take the class.


Class will be held at a park in Lahaina.

Contact Such Good Dogs to sign up now!!!!

808-463-4684

suchgooddogs@gmail.com

Can't wait to meet you.

Trainer Tips--Alternatives to shock collars

Although the shock collar has become a widely used "dog training" tool throughout the United States and elsewhere, there are many other alternative training tools that do not involve causing pain.

Next month I will have a very in-depth article on shock collars and all the information you have ever wanted to know about them.  But for this month's Trainer Tip, I would like to point out the many alternatives to using that very aversive method of training.

Just to be clear, I do not like shock collars (or E collars, or training collars, or any other name they go by).  As a positive reinforcement trainer, I do NOT condone the use of these devices nor recommend them to anyone.

I like to look at it this way...
Think of your current job, whatever it is you do to make money.  Whether or not you especially like your current job is not important.  Think of positive reinforcement training versus shock collar training like this...

Would you rather go to work and work really hard to get rewarded?
OR would you rather go to work and work really hard so you don't get punished?

I personally would rather work hard at my job to get rewarded.  If you have to work hard at a job to keep from getting punished, you probably won't keep that job for very long.  Think about it.  Say your job is trying to teach you something new, but instead of guiding you in the right direction and rewarding you when you figure it out, you are continuously shocked until you just figure it out, with no direction what-so-ever.  Sound like something you would like to try?  No?  Then why would you consider this option for your dog?

Still think maybe it doesn't really hurt?  Go to youtube.com and type in shock collars.  You can watch people trying these "tools" on themselves from all over the world.  They seem to think it hurts too!  Check out this video of a shock collar experiment.

Many people forget that training takes time and consistency, this is true of any type of training, positive or otherwise.  Knowing that, the e-collar option seems a little less appealing doesn't it?

So you might be thinking, well ok, I get what you're saying, but my dog is just so out of control.  That is why the wonderful world of dog products is constantly coming out with better and more efficient training tools.  And these tools do NOT cause your dog physical and mental pain and stress.

Have a dog that's hard to control on leash?  No problem.  Try one of these amazing tools to help!

Easy Walk Harness:

This is not a regular harness.  A regular harness clips on the back of the dog; this is designed for pulling.  The easy walk harness clips in the front, on the dog's chest.  This actually helps teach a dog to NOT pull on the walk.  When a dog pulls on the leash, he actually pulls himself around back towards the person holding the leash.  This product is amazing.  Not every tool is right for every dog, but I have personally seen this tool work wonders on many dogs.  Keep in mind, this is a tool to use, this is not a substitute for training.

Head Collars:

There are many types of head collars.  The most popular of these are the Gentle Leader (left) and the Halti (right).  Think about a horse, it's a very large animal that well outweighs any human, yet we are able to control the animal by controlling the head.  This is the same idea for dog head collars.  These tools are especially helpful for dogs who lunge and snap at things.

(Also see Such Good Dog's previous post for more information.)

Praise:

Good boy!  Good girl!  Good Dog!

Praise is by far the best training tool available today, and it's FREE!  As a positive reinforcement trainer, I always try to remind people to praise their dogs when they do something good.  It's much better to mark good behavior than bad behavior.  Again think of your job, it's good to know when you do something wrong so that you are able to fix it, or do it better the next time.  But being noticed and rewarded for doing something right is much more important.  The more we (and our dogs) are rewarded for doing something well, the more likely we are to that behavior again!

So every time your dog does what you are looking for, don't forget the "Good!" so he knows he did a good job.  The more you praise and reward the behavior you want, the more your dog will give it to you!

Good dog!

{This post is part ONE of two.  See post 2 of 2 on shock collars here.}