BML1--Class #6

Dogs from L to R:  Hope, Koa, Boone, Maybe, Devo, & Ogi.

Basic Manners Level One:

Positive Reinforcement Training

Energy Balance

Marker Word

No Reward Marker

Food Lure

Look/ Watch Me, Basic & the T position

Come when Called, 3 Steps & 3 Rules

Loose Leash Walking

Sit & Auto-Sit

Down

Up/ Stand

(Hand Signals)

Stay with Release Cue

Impulse Control

Leave It

Drop It

Class #6 of Basic Manners Level One is a review of all things learned.  We go over each cue and play different games to improve on each command.  At the end of class #6, each participant is given a certificate of completion.  Below are some pictures of the dogs working on "Stay."

Maybe.

Devo.

Boone.

Ogi.

REMEMBER to Keep Training Going:

Proper Exercise:  Every dog should be walked every day!

Good Relationship with the owner:  When you get frustrated, remember why you got your dog, he’s your buddy, he’s your pal.  Don’t take set-back’s personal.

Socialization:  It is very important to have a dog that is comfortable in as many different situations as possible.  Take your dog everywhere you can, but proceed at your dog’s pace.

Consistency:  Everyone in the household should have all the same rules, all the same cue words and commands, ALL THE TIME!

Generalizing:  Dogs do not generalize well.  It is important to practice everything you learn, everywhere you go.

Training Sessions:  Keep them short and sweet.  3-5 minutes a few times a day.

BML1--Class #5

Basic Manners -- Level One, Class #5

Such Good Dogs Basic Manners Class #5

Review of what is Rewarding to Dogs:

1.  Voice

2.  Eye Contact

3.  Touch

REVIEW:

Loose Leash Walking

Look/ Watch Me, Basic and the T position

Come when Called, 3 Steps & 3 Rules

Sit & Auto-Sit, Down, and Up

Leave-It

Stay with Release Cue, working on duration (building up time)

Drop It:

When teaching this cue, it is important to be aware of any possible Resource Guarding.  Dogs sometimes think they have a prize, or something they really like, and they want to keep it.  Low level resource guarding are things like lowering the head over an object or putting a paw over it.  High level resource guarding includes growling, air snapping, and biting.

Some dogs learn to guard because humans snatch things.  Never try and steal something from your dog.  Instead we must teach our dogs that all good things are provided by us.  We can trade whatever object they have for something of equal or higher value.

To teach the Drop It Cue:  First give the dog something he likes, such as a toy.  To begin, the dog must have an item in his mouth.  Once the dog is interested in the toy and has it in his mouth, present an item of higher value (treat) directly in front of the dog’s nose.  The dog will drop the toy to get the higher value item or treat.  As the dog drops the toy, say “Drop.”  As you are feeding the dog his reward, remove the toy with your foot at the same time.  Do not allow your dog to snatch the treat then snatch the toy back up.

REMEMBER to Keep Training Going:

Proper Exercise:  Every dog should be walked every day!

Good Relationship with the owner:  When you get frustrated, remember why you got your dog, he’s your buddy, he’s your pal.  Don’t take set-back’s personal.

Socialization:  It is very important to have a dog that is comfortable in as many different situations as possible.  Take your dog everywhere you can, but proceed at your dog’s pace.

Consistency:  Everyone in the household should have all the same rules, all the same cue words and commands, ALL THE TIME!

Generalizing:  Dogs do not generalize well.  It is important to practice everything you learn, everywhere you go.

Training Sessions:  Keep them short and sweet.  3-5 minutes a few times a day.

BML1--Class #4

Basic Manners -- Level One, Class #4

Such Good Dogs Basic Manners Class #4

Basic Toxins for Dogs:

Grapes, raisins, onions, garlic, chocolate, over the counter drugs.

Leave-It:

This means to your dog, you can’t have that and/or don’t pay any attention to that.  Teaching your dog this cue will help develop your dog’s self-control and keep him safe.

When teaching this cue, we first want to get the behavior before adding the cue word.  Get the dog to do the action 2-3 times, then add the word.  Teaching this command requires using both hands.  In one hand you will have something tasty the dog will be asked to leave alone.  Your dog should NOT get this item at this time.  In the other hand you will have your rewards.  Never teach Leave-It/ Take-It.  Doing this teaches your dog to leave something alone for a second, then they get to take it anyway.  When teaching Leave-It, NEVER give your dog the thing you are asking them to leave alone.

Start with both hands behind your back.  Present your hand with the forbidden item.  (Make sure that once you place your hand out, you do not move your hand).  As the dog moves towards the item/hand, say “Leave It.”  As soon as your dog pulls his nose away, give your “Good,” switch hands, and reward with a treat from your reward hand.  As with any training, as your dog gets better, you make the exercise more difficult.  Progression of Difficulty for Leave It:  item to leave alone in your closed hand, item in partially open hand, item in open hand, item in open hand on the ground, item on the ground.

Look / Watch Me:

After practicing the Basic Look: going from the dog’s nose directly to your eye, we will begin to make the exercise more difficult.

The T Position:  Start the exercise the same way.  Put the treat directly in front of the dog’s nose, say “Look” as you are bringing the treat up next to your eye.  But now, when you reach your eye, extend both arms out into a T position.  When the dog looks back at your face, give your “Good” and treat.  When making an exercise more difficult, first start with the easier version (the one the dog has already performed well), then move directly to the harder version.

Stay:

Means to a dog:  Stay in this place until I come BACK TO YOU to release you.

Wait:

Means to a dog:  Stay in this place until I ask you to do something else.  

ANOTHER CUE will follow the wait command.

First you must start by teaching a proper Stay command.  Do not move onto teaching the Wait command until you have trained the Stay command in all 3 parts.

3 Parts to the Stay Cue:

1.  Duration (time)

2.  Distance

3.  Distraction

Release Cue:

This means to a dog, you are now free to do what you want.  Common Release Cues include:  Break, Free, & Go.  I highly discourage owners from using “Okay” as a release cue.  This is a very commonly used phrase, and your dog may be randomly released by a passing stranger.  Use commands that are not common in every day speech.

To teach the Stay cue, put the dog into a Sit position next to you.  Teaching the Stay is another command you will need 2 hands for.  One hand will be giving your stop sign hand signal while the other hand delivers treats.  Put the leash under your foot to work without the distraction.  For this, you will also need a Release Cue.  Basically, you will rapidly feed your dog treats to remain in the Stay position.  We are teaching the dog that remaining in a Stay is highly rewarding.  As your dog is chewing the last treat, give your “Good,” then quickly give your Release Cue while turning on your heels and walking away.  Do not worry if your dog does not immediately follow.  After a few practice sessions, they will easily pick up the Release Cue.

To improve the cue, gradually make the dog wait longer between treats.  At first there may only be 1-3 seconds between treats.  As your dog improves, start making it harder and harder by making the dog wait a little longer between rewards.  Do not go too fast.  If you feel the dog is going to break the Stay, either treat them before they move, or release the dog before they release themselves.
It is VERY IMPORTANT to build up time before adding distance or distractions.  Building up a reliable Stay with time will make it easy to transition into training distance and distractions.  You should be able to get your dog to Stay for at least one minute before moving to adding distance.  Work on improving only one part of the stay cue at a time.  First duration, then distance, then distractions.

PRACTICE!

Loose Leash Walking

Look/ Watch me, both Basic and the T position

Sit & Auto-Sit, Down, and Up

Come when Called, all 3 steps

Leave It

Stay & Release Cue

Maybe (left) helping nervous Hope come out of her shell.

Looks like Hope made a new friend!

BML1--Class #2

Basic Manners -- Level One, Class #2

Such Good Dogs Basic Manners Class #2

Commands & Cues:

All commands or cue words like Sit and Come should be said ONE TIME and ONE TIME ONLY.  Never repeat your command word.  Instead give your No Reward Marker, move positions, and then try again.

Marker Word:

Use your chosen marker word:  “Good” or “Yes” (or the Clicker).

This is the word (or sound) that says to a dog, “Yes! That is exactly what I wanted you to do!” and is then followed with a reward.

No Reward Marker:

This is what we do when the dog does not do what we are looking for.  Try using an “Uh-oh” or “Eh-eh.”  This will let the dog know that the behavior just performed is not what we wanted, while still encouraging the dog to continue to try.  After using the NRM, physically move places (both you and the dog should move) to help “re-set” the training, then try again.  Never repeat a command more than once.

Food Lure:

This is something we use to teach many new behaviors and commands.  A food lure involves getting the dog to follow your baited hand into a desired position.

Look / Watch Me:

We want a dog who looks to us for direction and permission.  Having a dog that is well focused on the owner will give you control over many situations.  This is the exercise you will practice when your dog becomes distracted during training.  This is meant to help focus (or re-focus) the dog back to the owner.

To do this, we place the treat directly in the dog’s nose then raise it straight up next to our eye, while standing back up.  As you raise your hand give your command word, “Look.”  Eventually we want the dog to look directly in our eyes, but to begin with, it they look anywhere in the general area of your head, say your “Good” and give the treat.

If your dog remains in position but is not looking at you, do NOT repeat your arm movements or verbal command.  Instead, hold the treat in position next to your eye while looking at the dog and WAIT.  You will wait 30 seconds to a minute.  If the dog still has not looked, give your No Reward Marker or “Uh-oh,” move positions, take a breath, and then try again.

Watch a VIDEO teaching the "Look/ Watch Me" Cue in Basic Manners dog training class.

Come when Called:

The Rules:

1.  Always have a leash (or fenced-in area).

2.  When you say come, you have to see it happen.

3.  NEVER punish a dog for coming to you.

The Steps:

1. Say the dog’s name, and Come.  ONE TIME ONLY.
2. Have a party.
3. Lure the dog back to you.

When first teaching a dog Come when called, we start with step 1 & 3.  Standing directly in front of the dog (No distance), put the treat in the dog’s nose, say the dog’s name and Come (one time), then quickly back up a few steps.  When the dog follows, stop, say “Good!” and give the treat.  (Explained & Demonstrated in training.)

Loose Leash Walking:

Loose leash walking (LLW) means that a dog walks nicely, not pulling on the leash, and not completely all over the place.  LLW is not the same thing as Heel.  To teach a proper Heel, you must first teach LLW.

Consistency is very important when teaching LLW.  Doing this technique is actually very easy, but does require a LOT of patience.  Remember to stay calm.  If you are calm and consistent, your dog will be walking nicely on a leash in about a week.

To begin, go out for a walk with your regular 4-6 foot leash and buckle collar properly fitted to your dog’s neck (so they can’t slip out).  As soon as there is tension on the leash, you have two options:

When the dog pulls:  1)  Stop and wait for the DOG to move in a way that releases the tension.  When s/he does, continue walking.

2)  Say “Let’s Go!” and walk off in the opposite direction.

It is best to try and do option #1 as much as possible.  Be sure that when you stop and wait, you do not move in a way that is releasing the tension on the leash…the dog must do it.

REMEMBER:  Patience!  Patience!  Patience!

Meeting new friends.

Boone, Koa, & Maybe...these three are excited to play!