Check out our video of some puppy training basics with puppy Miles.
Showing posts with label up. Show all posts
Showing posts with label up. Show all posts
Wednesday, April 8, 2020
Saturday, March 28, 2015
BML2--Class #2
The Heel position is about the dog staying close to the handler and paying close attention. We will start with the Basic Heel position, the Stationary Heel.
To do this, we will food lure the dog into the Heel position at our left side. Use your left hand to food lure the dog into the position. If you need, take a step back with your left leg to encourage the dog to move. Once the dog is in the Heel position, practice a Sit and Look.
- Food lure the dog several times while backing up.
- Food lure the dog, now turn your body so the dog is now on the left side in Heel position (use the treat in your left hand).
—Always begin and end every Heel exercise with a Sit in the Heel position.
—When you stop moving forward, move your baited hand UP slightly to initiate the Sit position.
—As you are moving forward, the treat should be held up slightly from the dog so she is looking for it. Gradually progress to moving your hand all the way up to the Look position.
(Puppy Ping Pong and Hide & Seek Games)
The Rules:
- Safety first. Always have a leash or be in an enclosed area.
- When you say come, you have to see it happen.
- NEVER punish a dog for coming to you.
The Steps:
- Say the dog’s name and Come, one time only.
- Have a party.
- Lure (or gently lead) the dog back to you.
Remember, each cue/command has three parts to build up or work on:
- Duration (Time)
- Distance
- Distractions
To improve the Cue: we will apply a Reward Grading Scale.
This means that you must know what your dog likes best. For this scale, we will reward with a low level treat for an okay recall. As the dog improves on speed and direction, the training grade is higher, and therefore the reward should be greater. Once the dog runs the distance quickly and directly to you, use a Jackpot Reward. This means giving the dog several treats quickly after performing a behavior exceptionally well.
Practice Come when Called while adding Distance.
We will start at a distance where we know the dog will currently respond to Come, then slowly start adding distance each time. If the dog does not do well, take the training back a step (move closer to the dog). Remember to progress slowly. Be sure to attach your long line dog leash for this training. For this, it is helpful to have two people for each dog. This will make this exercise much easier to practice. (Puppy Ping Pong Game). Remember to practice all 3 Steps of Come When Called each time (as needed).
Come when Called while adding Distractions.
Next we will try adding distractions to Come when Called. To begin, we will start at a lower distance then was just practiced. Keep your long ling training leash attached. Now we will practice Come when Called while adding distractions. For this we will use other dogs and people from class, as well as objects to try and distract your dog during the Come command. Be sure to take this training very slowly. Heavily reward your dog for ignoring the distraction(s) and coming to you. Slowly add more difficult distractions. Remember to use your Reward Grading Scale. For better recalls, reward more lavishly with better treats.
Practice Look, Sit, Down, & Stand:
Finally we will practice some Basic Manners. Practice each cue and make the dog hold the position longer before the reward. Be sure to say your Reward Marker, “Good,” the instant the dog performs the behavior, but withhold the treat for a few seconds. Make the dog wait longer and longer for the reward. When rewarding, praise lavishly.
For Week 3 class we will be adding Distance and Distractions to the Stay cue. So for this week, practice the Stay cue without distance and distractions. Simply work on building up Duration, or time.
Saturday, February 28, 2015
BML1--Class #6
Positive Reinforcement Training
Energy Balance
Marker Word
No Reward Marker
Food Lure
Look/ Watch Me, Basic & the T position
Come when Called, 3 Steps & 3 Rules
Loose Leash Walking
Sit & Auto-Sit
Down
Up/ Stand
(Hand Signals)
Stay with Release Cue
Impulse Control
Leave It
Drop It
Class #6 of Basic Manners Level One is a review of all things learned. We go over each cue and play different games to improve on each command. At the end of class #6, each participant is given a certificate of completion. Below are some pictures of the dogs working on "Stay."
Maybe.
Devo.
Boone.
Ogi.
REMEMBER to Keep Training Going:
Proper Exercise: Every dog should be walked every day!
Good Relationship with the owner: When you get frustrated, remember why you got your dog, he’s your buddy, he’s your pal. Don’t take set-back’s personal.
Socialization: It is very important to have a dog that is comfortable in as many different situations as possible. Take your dog everywhere you can, but proceed at your dog’s pace.
Consistency: Everyone in the household should have all the same rules, all the same cue words and commands, ALL THE TIME!
Generalizing: Dogs do not generalize well. It is important to practice everything you learn, everywhere you go.
Training Sessions: Keep them short and sweet. 3-5 minutes a few times a day.
Labels:
basic manner class,
come,
dog training,
down,
drop it,
food lure,
impulse control,
leave it,
LLW,
look,
marker word,
no reward marker,
positive reinforcement,
sit,
socialization,
stay,
up
Saturday, February 21, 2015
BML1--Class #5
Basic Manners -- Level One, Class #5
Such Good Dogs Basic Manners Class #5
Review of what is Rewarding to Dogs:
1. Voice
2. Eye Contact
3. Touch
REVIEW:
Loose Leash Walking
Look/ Watch Me, Basic and the T position
Come when Called, 3 Steps & 3 Rules
Sit & Auto-Sit, Down, and Up
Leave-It
Stay with Release Cue, working on duration (building up time)
Drop It:
When teaching this cue, it is important to be aware of any possible Resource Guarding. Dogs sometimes think they have a prize, or something they really like, and they want to keep it. Low level resource guarding are things like lowering the head over an object or putting a paw over it. High level resource guarding includes growling, air snapping, and biting.
Some dogs learn to guard because humans snatch things. Never try and steal something from your dog. Instead we must teach our dogs that all good things are provided by us. We can trade whatever object they have for something of equal or higher value.
To teach the Drop It Cue: First give the dog something he likes, such as a toy. To begin, the dog must have an item in his mouth. Once the dog is interested in the toy and has it in his mouth, present an item of higher value (treat) directly in front of the dog’s nose. The dog will drop the toy to get the higher value item or treat. As the dog drops the toy, say “Drop.” As you are feeding the dog his reward, remove the toy with your foot at the same time. Do not allow your dog to snatch the treat then snatch the toy back up.
REMEMBER to Keep Training Going:
Proper Exercise: Every dog should be walked every day!
Good Relationship with the owner: When you get frustrated, remember why you got your dog, he’s your buddy, he’s your pal. Don’t take set-back’s personal.
Socialization: It is very important to have a dog that is comfortable in as many different situations as possible. Take your dog everywhere you can, but proceed at your dog’s pace.
Consistency: Everyone in the household should have all the same rules, all the same cue words and commands, ALL THE TIME!
Generalizing: Dogs do not generalize well. It is important to practice everything you learn, everywhere you go.
Training Sessions: Keep them short and sweet. 3-5 minutes a few times a day.
Labels:
basic manner class,
come,
dog training,
down,
drop it,
give,
leave it,
LLW,
look,
release cue,
sit,
stand,
up
Saturday, February 7, 2015
BML1--Class #3
Basic Manners -- Level One, Class #3
Such Good Dogs Basic Manners Class #3
Review of what is Rewarding to Dogs:
1. Voice
2. Eye Contact
3. Touch
Anti-Jumping/ Auto-Sit:
We want a dog to learn that anytime someone comes over, the dog should put their butt on the ground. To practice, you basically walk up to your dog like an excited, random stranger, if the dog remains with All 4 Paws on the Floor, give your “Good” and reward. If the dog jumps up, say nothing and walk away.
4 on the Floor: When a dog can be greeted and keep all 4 paws on the floor and/or sit, reward the dog with a “Good” and soft, calm pet. This is a good exercise to practice giving “Real Life Rewards.” Always make your dog EARN what they get.
Practice Look / Watch Me:
We want a dog who looks to us for direction and permission. Having a dog that is well focused on the owner will give you control over many situations. This is the exercise you will practice when your dog becomes distracted during training. This is meant to help focus (or re-focus) the dog back to the owner.
To do this, we place the treat directly in the dog’s nose then raise it straight up next to our eye, while standing back up. As you raise your hand give your command word, “Look.” Eventually we want the dog to look directly in our eyes, but to begin with, it they look anywhere in the general area of your head, say your “Good” and give the treat.
If your dog remains in position but is not looking at you, do NOT repeat your arm movements or verbal command. Instead, hold the treat in position next to your eye while looking at the dog and WAIT. You will wait 30 seconds to a minute. If the dog still has not looked, give your No Reward Marker or “Uh-oh,” move positions, take a breath, and then try again.
Sit, Down, & Up:
We use the Food Lure technique to first teach these commands. Some of these things may have already been learned, that’s great. You can use the dog’s current knowledge of each cue and progress further to adding hand signals. Each command should have its own word and hand signal. (Demonstrated in training.)
Come when Called:
We now add all 3 Steps to Come when Called.
1. Say the dog’s name, and Come. ONE TIME ONLY.
2. Have a party.
3. Lure the dog back to you.
The reason we have 3 steps is, we start with step one, if that doesn’t work, we try step 2, if that doesn’t work, we go to step 3. Properly practicing the steps and following the rules to Come when Called will help you build a reliable recall. This is one of the most important things you can teach your dog. As your dog improves, you must practice by slowly increasing distance, then adding distractions.
(Command & Hand Signal demonstrated in training).
Impulse Control:
Teaching a dog how to control his natural impulses can be very helpful in our everyday lives. Controlling your dog’s impulses can help keep him safe. For example, you do not want your dog to run out into the road after a rabbit or squirrel and get hit by a car. This is pre-training for teaching the Leave-It command.
In this exercise, we ultimately want the dog to look back to us for guidance when he is unable to get to the treat. We are looking for the dog to control his impulse to snatch something off the ground.
To begin, hold the dog’s leash short and toss a treat just out of the dog’s reach. Make sure the dog sees you do this. The dog will tug and pull and possible claw trying to get to the treat. When the dog looks away from the treat, reward the dog with a different treat (from your hand). Pick up the treat you tossed, and start again. The goal is first to get the dog to look away from the treat, and then to look back at you. When the dog does this, give your “Good” and reward with a different treat. Once the dog actually turns away from the thrown treat and LOOKS at you, give a very happy “Good!” with extra treats and praise.
Also check out our Impulse Control Training Video.
Also check out our Impulse Control Training Video.
Koa practicing Impulse Control.
Devo & Ogi practicing Loose Leash Walking.
Loose Leash Walking.
PRACTICE!
Sit & Auto-sit, Down, and Up
Come when Called, with all 3 steps
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