BML1--Class #6

Dogs from L to R:  Hope, Koa, Boone, Maybe, Devo, & Ogi.

Basic Manners Level One:

Positive Reinforcement Training

Energy Balance

Marker Word

No Reward Marker

Food Lure

Look/ Watch Me, Basic & the T position

Come when Called, 3 Steps & 3 Rules

Loose Leash Walking

Sit & Auto-Sit

Down

Up/ Stand

(Hand Signals)

Stay with Release Cue

Impulse Control

Leave It

Drop It

Class #6 of Basic Manners Level One is a review of all things learned.  We go over each cue and play different games to improve on each command.  At the end of class #6, each participant is given a certificate of completion.  Below are some pictures of the dogs working on "Stay."

Maybe.

Devo.

Boone.

Ogi.

REMEMBER to Keep Training Going:

Proper Exercise:  Every dog should be walked every day!

Good Relationship with the owner:  When you get frustrated, remember why you got your dog, he’s your buddy, he’s your pal.  Don’t take set-back’s personal.

Socialization:  It is very important to have a dog that is comfortable in as many different situations as possible.  Take your dog everywhere you can, but proceed at your dog’s pace.

Consistency:  Everyone in the household should have all the same rules, all the same cue words and commands, ALL THE TIME!

Generalizing:  Dogs do not generalize well.  It is important to practice everything you learn, everywhere you go.

Training Sessions:  Keep them short and sweet.  3-5 minutes a few times a day.

BML1--Class #5

Basic Manners -- Level One, Class #5

Such Good Dogs Basic Manners Class #5

Review of what is Rewarding to Dogs:

1.  Voice

2.  Eye Contact

3.  Touch

REVIEW:

Loose Leash Walking

Look/ Watch Me, Basic and the T position

Come when Called, 3 Steps & 3 Rules

Sit & Auto-Sit, Down, and Up

Leave-It

Stay with Release Cue, working on duration (building up time)

Drop It:

When teaching this cue, it is important to be aware of any possible Resource Guarding.  Dogs sometimes think they have a prize, or something they really like, and they want to keep it.  Low level resource guarding are things like lowering the head over an object or putting a paw over it.  High level resource guarding includes growling, air snapping, and biting.

Some dogs learn to guard because humans snatch things.  Never try and steal something from your dog.  Instead we must teach our dogs that all good things are provided by us.  We can trade whatever object they have for something of equal or higher value.

To teach the Drop It Cue:  First give the dog something he likes, such as a toy.  To begin, the dog must have an item in his mouth.  Once the dog is interested in the toy and has it in his mouth, present an item of higher value (treat) directly in front of the dog’s nose.  The dog will drop the toy to get the higher value item or treat.  As the dog drops the toy, say “Drop.”  As you are feeding the dog his reward, remove the toy with your foot at the same time.  Do not allow your dog to snatch the treat then snatch the toy back up.

REMEMBER to Keep Training Going:

Proper Exercise:  Every dog should be walked every day!

Good Relationship with the owner:  When you get frustrated, remember why you got your dog, he’s your buddy, he’s your pal.  Don’t take set-back’s personal.

Socialization:  It is very important to have a dog that is comfortable in as many different situations as possible.  Take your dog everywhere you can, but proceed at your dog’s pace.

Consistency:  Everyone in the household should have all the same rules, all the same cue words and commands, ALL THE TIME!

Generalizing:  Dogs do not generalize well.  It is important to practice everything you learn, everywhere you go.

Training Sessions:  Keep them short and sweet.  3-5 minutes a few times a day.

Trainer Tips--Things People do to Dogs that should be Banned: Part 1

As a trainer, I often see many things that people do to their dogs that is not good behavior.  Some of these things make me very sad for the dog, others make me down right angry.  Below are a few things that people do to dogs that should NEVER be allowed!

#1 - Debarking

This is a barbaric practice that should most definitely be banned!  Debarking, also called "bark softening," is a procedure in which the dog's vocal cords are cut to endure more of a whisper bark than a true bark.  Many people think that this is an acceptable solution to quieting a barking dog.  It is NOT!  This is one of those things that makes me furious.  This procedure is a very bloody and painful surgery for the dog.  People need to learn that this is NOT an acceptable option for getting your dog to stop barking.  Barking is a natural dog behavior, but that does not mean you cannot train your dog not to bark...you absolutely can.  Depending on how long your dog has been engaging in massive barking, the training may take a few weeks to a few months.  But with consistent, positive reinforcement training, you can teach your dog not to bark...a much better option than invasive, painful surgery!

#2 - Choke Chains/ Prong Collars

These are the tools of the past dog training methods.  Punishment-based dog training was all the rage for many years.  More recently we have learned that dogs learn faster and retain information longer when taught using positive reinforcement methods.  Using pain and/or punishment methods of training, such as these collars, can actually set back the learning process and create a relationship of mistrust between dog and owner.  Choke chains and prong collars are also often mis-used, however, even proper use of these items can cause trachea, neck, and throat damage in your dog.

Also see our previous article on Prong collars.
Also see our previous article Slip/ Choke collars

#3 - Electronic Collars

Although still widely used in various dog training, including competitive obedience, hunting and tracking, and police work, the Electronic or E-collars is a negative tool.  Dogs trained using adverse training methods such as shock collars, often end up with psychological damage.  Use of the E-collar can also increase the likelihood of aggressive tendencies in your dog.  

Many countries have already banned these collars.  It is time for the United States to follow suit!

Previous Post:  Shock Collars
Alternatives to Shock Collars

#4 - Invisible Fences

Many people were very excited when this product first came out.  It seemed to be a cheap and easy way to keep your dog confined without building an entire fence.  However, it is not.

In order to train your dog on how an Invisible Fence works, you must basically shock your dog over and over.  Repeated exposure to shocks can have many different adverse effects of your dog.  Besides this, these fences are not actually secure.  Many dogs will just run past the "shock zone" and out of the yard, especially if there is a large distraction outside the yard.  Obviously not what was intended.  The invisible fence also does not offer any protection from other animals coming INTO your yard, and possibly attacking your dog.  It offers no protections from someone stealing your dog.

Also see:  Things people do to dogs that should be banned:  Part 2.

BML1--Class #4

Basic Manners -- Level One, Class #4

Such Good Dogs Basic Manners Class #4

Basic Toxins for Dogs:

Grapes, raisins, onions, garlic, chocolate, over the counter drugs.

Leave-It:

This means to your dog, you can’t have that and/or don’t pay any attention to that.  Teaching your dog this cue will help develop your dog’s self-control and keep him safe.

When teaching this cue, we first want to get the behavior before adding the cue word.  Get the dog to do the action 2-3 times, then add the word.  Teaching this command requires using both hands.  In one hand you will have something tasty the dog will be asked to leave alone.  Your dog should NOT get this item at this time.  In the other hand you will have your rewards.  Never teach Leave-It/ Take-It.  Doing this teaches your dog to leave something alone for a second, then they get to take it anyway.  When teaching Leave-It, NEVER give your dog the thing you are asking them to leave alone.

Start with both hands behind your back.  Present your hand with the forbidden item.  (Make sure that once you place your hand out, you do not move your hand).  As the dog moves towards the item/hand, say “Leave It.”  As soon as your dog pulls his nose away, give your “Good,” switch hands, and reward with a treat from your reward hand.  As with any training, as your dog gets better, you make the exercise more difficult.  Progression of Difficulty for Leave It:  item to leave alone in your closed hand, item in partially open hand, item in open hand, item in open hand on the ground, item on the ground.

Look / Watch Me:

After practicing the Basic Look: going from the dog’s nose directly to your eye, we will begin to make the exercise more difficult.

The T Position:  Start the exercise the same way.  Put the treat directly in front of the dog’s nose, say “Look” as you are bringing the treat up next to your eye.  But now, when you reach your eye, extend both arms out into a T position.  When the dog looks back at your face, give your “Good” and treat.  When making an exercise more difficult, first start with the easier version (the one the dog has already performed well), then move directly to the harder version.

Stay:

Means to a dog:  Stay in this place until I come BACK TO YOU to release you.

Wait:

Means to a dog:  Stay in this place until I ask you to do something else.  

ANOTHER CUE will follow the wait command.

First you must start by teaching a proper Stay command.  Do not move onto teaching the Wait command until you have trained the Stay command in all 3 parts.

3 Parts to the Stay Cue:

1.  Duration (time)

2.  Distance

3.  Distraction

Release Cue:

This means to a dog, you are now free to do what you want.  Common Release Cues include:  Break, Free, & Go.  I highly discourage owners from using “Okay” as a release cue.  This is a very commonly used phrase, and your dog may be randomly released by a passing stranger.  Use commands that are not common in every day speech.

To teach the Stay cue, put the dog into a Sit position next to you.  Teaching the Stay is another command you will need 2 hands for.  One hand will be giving your stop sign hand signal while the other hand delivers treats.  Put the leash under your foot to work without the distraction.  For this, you will also need a Release Cue.  Basically, you will rapidly feed your dog treats to remain in the Stay position.  We are teaching the dog that remaining in a Stay is highly rewarding.  As your dog is chewing the last treat, give your “Good,” then quickly give your Release Cue while turning on your heels and walking away.  Do not worry if your dog does not immediately follow.  After a few practice sessions, they will easily pick up the Release Cue.

To improve the cue, gradually make the dog wait longer between treats.  At first there may only be 1-3 seconds between treats.  As your dog improves, start making it harder and harder by making the dog wait a little longer between rewards.  Do not go too fast.  If you feel the dog is going to break the Stay, either treat them before they move, or release the dog before they release themselves.
It is VERY IMPORTANT to build up time before adding distance or distractions.  Building up a reliable Stay with time will make it easy to transition into training distance and distractions.  You should be able to get your dog to Stay for at least one minute before moving to adding distance.  Work on improving only one part of the stay cue at a time.  First duration, then distance, then distractions.

PRACTICE!

Loose Leash Walking

Look/ Watch me, both Basic and the T position

Sit & Auto-Sit, Down, and Up

Come when Called, all 3 steps

Leave It

Stay & Release Cue

Maybe (left) helping nervous Hope come out of her shell.

Looks like Hope made a new friend!

Dog Translator!--Dog Apps/ Accessory

Dog Translator!

iPhone Apps for Dogs/ Dog Accessory

Updated:  August 15, 2013

FREE

This is app is quite silly but can be fun.  Basically you tap to start recording your dog's barks or noises, wait a second, and the app will translate what your dog is trying to tell you (or what the app thinks your dog might be trying to tell you).

There is absolutely no science behind this app and what it translates is not necessarily what the dog is feeling.  This app is just for fun.  If you have a dog that is vocal a lot of the time, it might be fun for you.

VIDEO: Impulse Control

Impulse Control:

Teaching a dog how to control his natural impulses can be very helpful in our everyday lives.  Controlling your dog’s impulses can help keep him safe.  For example, you do not want your dog to run out into the road after a rabbit or squirrel and get hit by a car.  This is pre-training for teaching the Leave-It command.

In this exercise, we ultimately want the dog to look back to us for guidance when he is unable to get to the treat.  We are looking for the dog to control his impulse to snatch something off the ground.

To begin, hold the dog’s leash short and toss a treat just out of the dog’s reach.  Make sure the dog sees you do this.  The dog will tug and pull and possible claw trying to get to the treat.  When the dog looks away from the treat, mark the behavior with your Marker Word, "Good!," and reward the dog with a different treat (from your hand).  Pick up the treat you tossed, and start again.  The goal is first to get the dog to look away from the treat, and then to look back at you.  When the dog does this, give your “Good” and reward with a different treat.  Once the dog actually turns away from the thrown treat and LOOKS at you, give a very happy “Good!” with extra treats and praise.

BML1--Class #3

Basic Manners -- Level One, Class #3

Maybe & Lillinoe playing before class.

Such Good Dogs Basic Manners Class #3

Review of what is Rewarding to Dogs:

1.  Voice

2.  Eye Contact

3.  Touch

Anti-Jumping/ Auto-Sit:

We want a dog to learn that anytime someone comes over, the dog should put their butt on the ground.  To practice, you basically walk up to your dog like an excited, random stranger, if the dog remains with All 4 Paws on the Floor, give your “Good” and reward.  If the dog jumps up, say nothing and walk away.

4 on the Floor:  When a dog can be greeted and keep all 4 paws on the floor and/or sit, reward the dog with a “Good” and soft, calm pet.  This is a good exercise to practice giving “Real Life Rewards.”  Always make your dog EARN what they get.

Practice Look / Watch Me:

We want a dog who looks to us for direction and permission.  Having a dog that is well focused on the owner will give you control over many situations.  This is the exercise you will practice when your dog becomes distracted during training.  This is meant to help focus (or re-focus) the dog back to the owner.

To do this, we place the treat directly in the dog’s nose then raise it straight up next to our eye, while standing back up.  As you raise your hand give your command word, “Look.”  Eventually we want the dog to look directly in our eyes, but to begin with, it they look anywhere in the general area of your head, say your “Good” and give the treat.

If your dog remains in position but is not looking at you, do NOT repeat your arm movements or verbal command.  Instead, hold the treat in position next to your eye while looking at the dog and WAIT.  You will wait 30 seconds to a minute.  If the dog still has not looked, give your No Reward Marker or “Uh-oh,” move positions, take a breath, and then try again.

Sit, Down, & Up:

We use the Food Lure technique to first teach these commands.  Some of these things may have already been learned, that’s great.  You can use the dog’s current knowledge of each cue and progress further to adding hand signals.  Each command should have its own word and hand signal.  (Demonstrated in training.)

Come when Called:

We now add all 3 Steps to Come when Called.

1.  Say the dog’s name, and Come.  ONE TIME ONLY.

2.  Have a party.

3.  Lure the dog back to you.

The reason we have 3 steps is, we start with step one, if that doesn’t work, we try step 2, if that doesn’t work, we go to step 3.  Properly practicing the steps and following the rules to Come when Called will help you build a reliable recall.  This is one of the most important things you can teach your dog.  As your dog improves, you must practice by slowly increasing distance, then adding distractions.  

(Command & Hand Signal demonstrated in training).

Impulse Control:

Teaching a dog how to control his natural impulses can be very helpful in our everyday lives.  Controlling your dog’s impulses can help keep him safe.  For example, you do not want your dog to run out into the road after a rabbit or squirrel and get hit by a car.  This is pre-training for teaching the Leave-It command.

In this exercise, we ultimately want the dog to look back to us for guidance when he is unable to get to the treat.  We are looking for the dog to control his impulse to snatch something off the ground.

To begin, hold the dog’s leash short and toss a treat just out of the dog’s reach.  Make sure the dog sees you do this.  The dog will tug and pull and possible claw trying to get to the treat.  When the dog looks away from the treat, reward the dog with a different treat (from your hand).  Pick up the treat you tossed, and start again.  The goal is first to get the dog to look away from the treat, and then to look back at you.  When the dog does this, give your “Good” and reward with a different treat.  Once the dog actually turns away from the thrown treat and LOOKS at you, give a very happy “Good!” with extra treats and praise.
Also check out our Impulse Control Training Video.

Koa practicing Impulse Control.

Devo & Ogi practicing Loose Leash Walking.

Loose Leash Walking.

PRACTICE!

Loose Leash Walking

Look

Sit & Auto-sit, Down, and Up

Come when Called, with all 3 steps

Impulse Control

Ogi waiting for her reward for doing well.

Breed of the Month--Springer Spaniel

English Springer Spaniel

Colors:  Black & white, liver & white, blue or liver roan
Height:  Males:  20 inches/  Females:  19 inches
Weight:  Males:  50 lbs/  Females:  40 lbs
Life Span:  12-14 years

Breed health concerns:  ear infections, hip dysplasia, progressive retinal atrophy, and epilepsy.

Coat:  Double coat with straight, medium-length, weather-resistant outer coat.
Country of Origin:  England

Visit the American Kennel Club for breed standards and more information.

Used to flush game from cover in England, this breed gained the name "Springer" from the way they jumped into the brush.  In the late 1800s, the Spaniel breeds (Cockers, Fields, and Springers) were officially separated.  The English Springer Spaniel was official given breed status in England in 1902.  Today there are two types of English Springer Spaniels, the field and show varieties. 

The English Springer Spaniels are very playful and affectionate dogs.  They are quick learners, even-tempered, and respectful of their owners.  Springers make excellent hunting dogs.  These dogs are very attracted to water, and will gladly swim in any body of water.  Springers are good with kids but may sometimes become overly attached to the person they spend the most time with.  Because Springers become so attached, they can sometimes create a barking problem when left along.


Exercise:
To keep a Springer happy and healthy, several energetic walks per day are required.  The more exercise a Springer gets, the better.  Springers are happy to accompany their owners everywhere.  And of course swimming is always a favorite for the Springer!

Grooming:
A Springers' ears should be kept clean and frequently inspected for signs of infection.  The Springers coat needs regular brushing, and the long fur on the ears must be kept free of tangles and knots.

Training:
Springers very quickly catch on to training because they aim to please their owners.  This breed is very athletic and loves to participate is many activities like hunting, obedience, agility, flyball, tracking, swimming, and anything else the owner might want to do.  Springers need good socialization from an early age.

Water!  Yippy!

I will bring this to you because I love you.

Our oldest dog, Nekita, is a Springer Spaniel/ Lab mix.  She most definitely exhibits the love of the water from both breeds!  Nekita's most favorite thing in all the world to do is go swimming.  Nekita also exhibits the Springer Spaniel's breed characteristic of being very happy-go-lucky.  Most Springer Spaniels or Springer mixes I have come across tend to be very happy dogs that enjoy meeting new people and playing with new friends.  Nekita is also very attached to the person she first bonded with, me.  

Here is Nekita (right), our Springer Spaniel mix,

playing with some friends at the beach.

Someone please throw this ball!

VIDEO: Teaching a "Look/ Watch Me" to your dog

Below is a video taken from this month's Basic Manners--Level One Class.  In this video, Animal Behavior Certified Dog Trainer, Athena Angelic, explains and demonstrates how to begin teaching this Cue/Command to your dog.  We have also attached the notes for training for reference.

Look / Watch Me:

We want a dog who looks to us for direction and permission.  Having a dog that is well focused on the owner will give you control over many situations.  This is the exercise you will practice when your dog becomes distracted during training.  This is meant to help focus (or re-focus) the dog back to the owner.

To do this, we place the treat directly in the dog’s nose then raise it straight up next to our eye, while standing back up.  As you raise your hand give your command word, “Look.”  Eventually we want the dog to look directly in our eyes, but to begin with, it they look anywhere in the general area of your head, say your “Good” (Reward Marker) and give the treat.

If your dog remains in position but is not looking at you, do NOT repeat your arm movements or verbal command.  Instead, hold the treat in position next to your eye while looking at the dog and WAIT.  You will wait 30 seconds to a minute.  If the dog still has not looked, give your No Reward Marker or “Uh-oh,” move positions, take a breath, and then try again.

Marker Word:

Use your chosen marker word:  “Good” or “Yes” (or the Clicker).

This is the word (or sound) that says to a dog, “Yes! That is exactly what I wanted you to do!” and is then followed with a reward.

No Reward Marker:

This is what we do when the dog does not do what we are looking for.  Try using an “Uh-oh” or “Eh-eh.”  This will let the dog know that the behavior just performed is not what we wanted, while still encouraging the dog to continue to try.  After using the NRM, physically move places (both you and the dog should move) to help “re-set” the training, then try again.  Never repeat a command more than once.