Video of the Day: Hiking Lipoa Point & visiting Nekita's memorial. Our dog Nekita passed away unexpectedly last year. It was extremely difficult for all of us. It has now been just over a year. To honor her this year, I bought a rose on the anniversary of her death that we kept in the house, then dried. When the time was right, the family and I took the rose to Lipoa Point where we spread her ashes. This was one of Nekita's favorite places to hike and it will always hold a special place in my heart. This hike is through the old Pineapple fields. It is just past Honolua Bay. There is a dirt road referred to as the Surfers Road. If you take that road all the way to the end, there is the start of a trail that goes along the ocean through the old pineapple fields. It is amazingly beautiful and a great place to hike and then watch an amazing sunset. Related Blog Articles: Goodbye Nekita Remembering Nekita Video Adventures: Pineapple Hill Maluaka/ Maui Prince Beach Launiupoko Hike, south side Hiking the L in Lahaina
Video of the Day: Devo loves his tennis ball. We are out at Flemmings Beach Park in Kapalua. This is one of our favorite parks to hang out in and meet up with friends. The dogs love it as well. As you can see, Devo loves his little tennis ball.
Today's Trainer Tip: Your reminder for monthly dog meds. Each and every month you should be giving your dog medication for flea and tick prevention and for heart worm prevention. Currently we are using Interceptor Plus for our dog's heart worm and other internal parasite prevention. This should be given every month. Devo gets a pill for his flea and tick prevention called Bravecto. For some dogs this kind of pill can be difficult on their stomach so it is recommended to take with food. This pill provides protection for 3 months. Caravaggio does not do well with this pill because it upsets his stomach, so he gets the topical flea and tick prevention instead. The topical we are currently using is called Activyl. It is easy to apply. You simply pop the package open and apply the liquid in between the dog's shoulder blades behind the neck. Once this is applied, be sure to avoid touching that area on the dog until the liquid is dry. It is also important to not bath or take the dog swimming for at least 2 days before and after applying this medicine. These are examples of the meds available for your dog. Your vet may recommend a different type depending on your dog's needs. Please talk to your vet if you have any questions or concerns. Related Blog Articles: Trainer Tips: Monthly Reminders Trainer Tips: Dog Care Essentials Myth vs. Fact on Spay & Neuter Trainer Tips: Why Spay/ Neuter you pet Trainer Tips: Picking a pet food
Today's Video: Socialization with Olivia Day 3: Puppy Party. Olivia has been working with Such Good Dogs and getting some much needed socialization around other dogs. She is doing very well. Although she is still a little unsure around new dogs, she is much more calm and does not react nearly as strongly as she first did. I am very happy with her progress. Today we have a full pack including my dogs Caravaggio & Devo, and our friends Nalu, Moana, and Phinney.
Socialization
This term tends to be thrown in your face a lot if you're a dog owner. Everyone from breeders, rescue personnel, and veterinarians will tell you to socialize your dog. This is very true, proper socialization is vitally important to raising a well balanced, well mannered dog. The problem is that many people are confused by the term.
Proper Socialization: Is teaching a dog to not react to stimuli by desensitizing him to every day things.
This means the more experiences your dog has in a good, positive way, they less they will react to things that are unfamiliar with them. All of these experiences should be introduced at a pace the dog is comfortable with. Do not force a scared dog, let him take his time and become comfortable with the situation at his own pace. A dog (and especially a puppy) should always appear happy and relaxed during socialization. Another way of thinking about proper socialization is to literally desensitize your dog to regular sounds and occurrences. Things like cars, skate boards, and bikes. Also people who are different: short, tall, wearing a hat or glasses, etc. Improperly socialized dogs tend to be over-reactive or shy. They withdraw from people and sometimes flinch or freeze. Many improperly socialized dogs suffer from anxiety. Poor socialization can also lead to aggression. Related Blog Articles: Video of the Day: Socialization with Olivia (first day). Video of the Day: Socialization with Olivia Day Two. Trainer Tip Video: Socialization. Proper Socialization. Socialization. Adding a second dog to your pack. Introducing your dog to the cat.
Video of the Day: Dog tries to bury food. Caravaggio has decided that he wants to bury his food in the rug. Not sure why but I find it amusing to watch. I linked some articles below if you have a dog that does this regularly. I think in this instance, Caravaggio was trying to hide his food from his brother Devo, who scarfed his own food down quickly then was hovering around Caravaggio and his food bowl. Hope you enjoy our video. Don't forget to like and share! Related Links: The Dog Pretends to Bury Food Before Eating The Food Covering Canine
Today's Video of the Day: Socialization with Olivia, Day 2. Olivia is a small Yorkie mix that tends to bark and lunge at other dogs. Her owner came to Such Good Dogs to help socialize her. After the initial appointment, we set up a some socialization. I always start by using my own dogs. I use them often in training and socialization. They have been trained how to react, or not react, when other dogs present bad behaviors to them. They are excellent for some beginning socialization. Once I see how the client's dog reacts to my dogs, I know whether or not they are ready to socialize with other dogs. Since Olivia did so well in her first Socialization, this time I brought another friend of ours, Nalu, to join the pack. Nalu is a small Miniature Pincher & Chihuahua mix and loves to play and run with other dogs. He tried several times to get Olivia to play. Although she is still a little unsure about it, she did run after him a few times. I am pleased to see that Olivia is progressing very well.
Socialization
This term tends to be thrown in your face a lot if you're a dog owner. Everyone from breeders, rescue personnel, and veterinarians will tell you to socialize your dog. This is very true, proper socialization is vitally important to raising a well balanced, well mannered dog. The problem is that many people are confused by the term.
Proper Socialization: Is teaching a dog to not react to stimuli by desensitizing him to every day things.
This means the more experiences your dog has in a good, positive way, they less they will react to things that are unfamiliar with them. All of these experiences should be introduced at a pace the dog is comfortable with. Do not force a scared dog, let him take his time and become comfortable with the situation at his own pace. A dog (and especially a puppy) should always appear happy and relaxed during socialization. Another way of thinking about proper socialization is to literally desensitize your dog to regular sounds and occurrences. Things like cars, skate boards, and bikes. Also people who are different: short, tall, wearing a hat or glasses, etc. Improperly socialized dogs tend to be over-reactive or shy. They withdraw from people and sometimes flinch or freeze. Many improperly socialized dogs suffer from anxiety. Poor socialization can also lead to aggression. Related Blog Articles: Video of the Day: Socialization with Olivia (Day 1) Trainer Tip Video: Socialization
Today's Video of the Day: Devo discovers the toy bin.
Having a regular bin or area where you keep all your dog toys is a good idea. Whenever your dog is ready for some playtime, they know just where to go to get a toy to have some fun with. This is a video from 2015 when Devo was just a puppy discovering our place and his new surroundings. This is the first time he really figured it out.
Today's Trainer Tip: Enjoy a game of fetch at the beach with your dog.
Fetch:
Fetch is very helpful game that every owner should teach their dog. It is an excellent way to exercise your dog without wearing yourself out.
Rules of Fetch:
Dog must Sit.
Dog must Look.
Fetch.
Dog returns toy.
Dog drops toy.
Repeat.
To start, we must have a toy that the dog likes. Get the dog interested in the toy, then throw it a 2-4 feet away. Say “Fetch” as you throw the toy in a very energetic, excited voice. When the dog reaches the toy, praise if he touches it with his mouth. Encourage the dog to pick up the toy. When he does, say your “Good!” Use Come when Called to encourage the dog to return to you with the toy. If the dog drops the toy along the way, give your “Uh-oh,” return to the toy and encourage the dog to pick it up again. When the dog returns with the toy, DO NOT REACH OUT TO GRAB IT. The dog must learn to bring it to you. Once the dog is within one foot of you, grab the toy and encourage the dog to drop using your “Drop It” command. When he does, give your “Good!” Have the dog Sit. Good! Wait a few second; use the toy to practice “Look.” Once the dog looks in your eyes, throw the toy and say “Fetch.”
As a dog trainer, Clever Pet is one of the best interactive dog toys I have ever come across. It is easy to start your pet on and automatically gets harder as your dog learns each new step. I absolutely love this little machine. Above is a quick video I did of our dog, Devo, and our neighbor's dog, Lucy, learning how to use the Clever Pet. This is an interactive dog toy that I would recommend for any and all dogs. It helps keep your dog entertained while you are away during the day. This toy can also help dog's with separation anxiety by helping keep their mind engaged in something.
Teaching a dog how to control his natural impulses can be very helpful in our everyday lives. Controlling your dog’s impulses can help keep him safe. For example, you do not want your dog to run out into the road after a rabbit or squirrel and get hit by a car. This is pre-training for teaching the Leave-It command.
In this exercise, we ultimately want the dog to look back to us for guidance when he is unable to get to the treat. We are looking for the dog to control his impulse to snatch something off the ground.
To begin, hold the dog’s leash short and toss a treat just out of the dog’s reach. Make sure the dog sees you do this. The dog will tug and pull and possible claw trying to get to the treat. When the dog looks away from the treat, mark the behavior with your Marker Word, "Good!," and reward the dog with a different treat (from your hand). Pick up the treat you tossed, and start again. The goal is first to get the dog to look away from the treat, and then to look back at you. When the dog does this, give your “Good” and reward with a different treat. Once the dog actually turns away from the thrown treat and LOOKS at you, give a very happy “Good!” with extra treats and praise.
Below is a video taken from this month's Basic Manners--Level One Class. In this video, Animal Behavior Certified Dog Trainer, Athena Angelic, explains and demonstrates how to begin teaching this Cue/Command to your dog. We have also attached the notes for training for reference.
Look / Watch Me:
We want a dog who looks to us for direction and permission. Having a dog that is well focused on the owner will give you control over many situations. This is the exercise you will practice when your dog becomes distracted during training. This is meant to help focus (or re-focus) the dog back to the owner.
To do this, we place the treat directly in the dog’s nose then raise it straight up next to our eye, while standing back up. As you raise your hand give your command word, “Look.” Eventually we want the dog to look directly in our eyes, but to begin with, it they look anywhere in the general area of your head, say your “Good” (Reward Marker) and give the treat.
If your dog remains in position but is not looking at you, do NOT repeat your arm movements or verbal command. Instead, hold the treat in position next to your eye while looking at the dog and WAIT. You will wait 30 seconds to a minute. If the dog still has not looked, give your No Reward Marker or “Uh-oh,” move positions, take a breath, and then try again.
Marker Word:
Use your chosen marker word: “Good” or “Yes” (or the Clicker).
This is the word (or sound) that says to a dog, “Yes! That is exactly what I wanted you to do!” and is then followed with a reward.
No Reward Marker:
This is what we do when the dog does not do what we are looking for. Try using an “Uh-oh” or “Eh-eh.” This will let the dog know that the behavior just performed is not what we wanted, while still encouraging the dog to continue to try. After using the NRM, physically move places (both you and the dog should move) to help “re-set” the training, then try again. Never repeat a command more than once.
For this month's Trainer Tips, I would like to retouch on one of the most important things you can do for your dog...to properly socialize them.
Properly socializing your dog is very important, but many people do not understand what that actually means. Proper socialization is not only exposing your dog to as many situations, people, and other dogs as possible, but more importantly, making all of these experiences positive ones so that your dog becomes comfortable no matter what happens.
In order to do this, it is important for you to allow your dog to take his time exploring something new. Never quickly force a dog or puppy that is not comfortable into a new situation. The dog should appear mostly relaxed, not tense or afraid. This is why it is so important to begin this process as soon as possible! This means the day you get your dog, or as soon as your new puppy has all his shots and is vet approved to meet others.
Although we do not want to force our dogs into the situation, we must also ensure that they do not shut down from fear. Dogs that do this become trapped in that fearful state. This is obviously not healthy for your dog or something we want to have happen. To prevent this, ensure that when your dog socializes, they are not allowed to hide behind or under you (their owner) or other people or objects. If they hide under a person, the person should move away. If they hide under an object, move the other dogs away from the area, then slowly encourage/ lead the dog out of his hiding spot. Try and block the hiding spot once they are out.
To help take the pressure off a fearful dog, you can also turn the fearful dog around and allow the new dog to sniff their rear end. It is best to allow one dog to sniff a very fearful dog at a time. Then turn the new dog around and allow the fearful dog to sniff the new dog's rear end. Greeting a dog this way helps takes pressure off dogs who are fearful, anxious, or nervous.
Below is a video on Proper Dog Socialization.
This video features Khloe, a 6-month-old Boxer in training with SGDs.
Also in this video are two of our own pack, Caravaggio (our Great Dane mix), and Devo (our Miniature Pinscher/ Chihuahua mix...currently 7 months).
Other helpful and interesting Blogs related to this Topic...
Here is the video for Step Two of teaching your dog to swim in the ocean. Keep in mind that these videos do go together for training. Teaching your dog to swim in the ocean Step One should be one day of training. Step 2 should be done over several training sessions, while also mixing in Step One when your dog is feeling relaxed.
Always remember to stay calm during any training, especially when the training involves something new and intimidating, such as ocean waves. Take training slowly...ease your dog into new things. You should never rush a dog that is obviously nervous or afraid. Don't feel bad if it takes more time than you think it should. If you do not rush your dog, you will have him loving the beach in no time. Also remember that it's important for the dog to witness you (and if possible other dogs) having fun at the beach. This tells the dog that this is a fun place to be. Encourage your dog with praise when they are calm and/or relaxed.
