VIDEO: Impulse Control

Impulse Control:

Teaching a dog how to control his natural impulses can be very helpful in our everyday lives.  Controlling your dog’s impulses can help keep him safe.  For example, you do not want your dog to run out into the road after a rabbit or squirrel and get hit by a car.  This is pre-training for teaching the Leave-It command.

In this exercise, we ultimately want the dog to look back to us for guidance when he is unable to get to the treat.  We are looking for the dog to control his impulse to snatch something off the ground.

To begin, hold the dog’s leash short and toss a treat just out of the dog’s reach.  Make sure the dog sees you do this.  The dog will tug and pull and possible claw trying to get to the treat.  When the dog looks away from the treat, mark the behavior with your Marker Word, "Good!," and reward the dog with a different treat (from your hand).  Pick up the treat you tossed, and start again.  The goal is first to get the dog to look away from the treat, and then to look back at you.  When the dog does this, give your “Good” and reward with a different treat.  Once the dog actually turns away from the thrown treat and LOOKS at you, give a very happy “Good!” with extra treats and praise.

VIDEO: Teaching a "Look/ Watch Me" to your dog

Below is a video taken from this month's Basic Manners--Level One Class.  In this video, Animal Behavior Certified Dog Trainer, Athena Angelic, explains and demonstrates how to begin teaching this Cue/Command to your dog.  We have also attached the notes for training for reference.

Look / Watch Me:

We want a dog who looks to us for direction and permission.  Having a dog that is well focused on the owner will give you control over many situations.  This is the exercise you will practice when your dog becomes distracted during training.  This is meant to help focus (or re-focus) the dog back to the owner.

To do this, we place the treat directly in the dog’s nose then raise it straight up next to our eye, while standing back up.  As you raise your hand give your command word, “Look.”  Eventually we want the dog to look directly in our eyes, but to begin with, it they look anywhere in the general area of your head, say your “Good” (Reward Marker) and give the treat.

If your dog remains in position but is not looking at you, do NOT repeat your arm movements or verbal command.  Instead, hold the treat in position next to your eye while looking at the dog and WAIT.  You will wait 30 seconds to a minute.  If the dog still has not looked, give your No Reward Marker or “Uh-oh,” move positions, take a breath, and then try again.

Marker Word:

Use your chosen marker word:  “Good” or “Yes” (or the Clicker).

This is the word (or sound) that says to a dog, “Yes! That is exactly what I wanted you to do!” and is then followed with a reward.

No Reward Marker:

This is what we do when the dog does not do what we are looking for.  Try using an “Uh-oh” or “Eh-eh.”  This will let the dog know that the behavior just performed is not what we wanted, while still encouraging the dog to continue to try.  After using the NRM, physically move places (both you and the dog should move) to help “re-set” the training, then try again.  Never repeat a command more than once.

Trainer Tips--VIDEO: Proper Dog Socialization

For this month's Trainer Tips, I would like to retouch on one of the most important things you can do for your dog...to properly socialize them.

Properly socializing your dog is very important, but many people do not understand what that actually means.  Proper socialization is not only exposing your dog to as many situations, people, and other dogs as possible, but more importantly, making all of these experiences positive ones so that your dog becomes comfortable no matter what happens.  

In order to do this, it is important for you to allow your dog to take his time exploring something new.  Never quickly force a dog or puppy that is not comfortable into a new situation.  The dog should appear mostly relaxed, not tense or afraid.  This is why it is so important to begin this process as soon as possible!  This means the day you get your dog, or as soon as your new puppy has all his shots and is vet approved to meet others. 

Although we do not want to force our dogs into the situation, we must also ensure that they do not shut down from fear.  Dogs that do this become trapped in that fearful state. This is obviously not healthy for your dog or something we want to have happen.  To prevent this, ensure that when your dog socializes, they are not allowed to hide behind or under you (their owner) or other people or objects.  If they hide under a person, the person should move away.  If they hide under an object, move the other dogs away from the area, then slowly encourage/ lead the dog out of his hiding spot.  Try and block the hiding spot once they are out.

To help take the pressure off a fearful dog, you can also turn the fearful dog around and allow the new dog to sniff their rear end.  It is best to allow one dog to sniff a very fearful dog at a time.  Then turn the new dog around and allow the fearful dog to sniff the new dog's rear end.  Greeting a dog this way helps takes pressure off dogs who are fearful, anxious, or nervous.

Below is a video on Proper Dog Socialization.

This video features Khloe, a 6-month-old Boxer in training with SGDs.

Also in this video are two of our own pack, Caravaggio (our Great Dane mix), and Devo (our Miniature Pinscher/ Chihuahua mix...currently 7 months).

Other helpful and interesting Blogs related to this Topic...

Trainer Tips--Dog Parks, Friend or Foe

Proper Leadership

Trainer Tips--Island Dog Socialization

Trainer Tips--Dog Friends

Trainer Tips--The Game of Chase

Breed of the Month--Boxer

VIDEO: Teach your dog to Play Dead

VIDEO:  Teach your dog to Play Dead.

VIDEO: Teaching your dog to swim in the ocean: Step Two

Here is the video for Step Two of teaching your dog to swim in the ocean.  Keep in mind that these videos do go together for training.  Teaching your dog to swim in the ocean Step One should be one day of training.  Step 2 should be done over several training sessions, while also mixing in Step One when your dog is feeling relaxed.

Always remember to stay calm during any training, especially when the training involves something new and intimidating, such as ocean waves.  Take training slowly...ease your dog into new things.  You should never rush a dog that is obviously nervous or afraid.  Don't feel bad if it takes more time than you think it should.  If you do not rush your dog, you will have him loving the beach in no time. Also remember that it's important for the dog to witness you (and if possible other dogs) having fun at the beach.  This tells the dog that this is a fun place to be.  Encourage your dog with praise when they are calm and/or relaxed.

See Step One of Teaching your dog to Swim here.

We hope you enjoy the video...

Video: How to teach a dog to swim in the ocean.

We finally reached our last Parvovirus shot for our 4-month-old puppy DEVO.  Once your pup has all their Parvo shots, you are finally able to take them anywhere, including the beach.  We have been patiently waiting for 3 weeks (since we first adopted him) to take him to the beach.  I'm very happy to say that today was finally the day.

Below is a video I did of DEVO's first swim.  The video gives some quick instructions on how to help teach your dog to swim in the ocean.  I hope you enjoy it.

Check out Such Good Dogs YouTube Page!

Athena & Lily demonstrate "Drop It/ Give"

In this week's class the students learned how to teach their dogs the "Drop It/ Give" cue.  After explaining the concept of teaching your dog this cue, (see notes for Basic Manners Class #5), I demonstrated for the class with Lily, who did a very good job.

Trainer escapes dog bite.

In my current Basic Manners class I have a small black dog named Boo.  Boo is very reactive to everything and reacts by nipping and attacking.  In this video I was demonstrating how to teach the "leave it" cue.  Boo does what he is supposed to for the "leave it" cue and turns his head away from what I have told him to leave.  When he does this, I say "good" and immediately reward him with a treat.  While talking with the owners, I did not notice another dog that had momentarily come behind me.  Watch the video closely and you will see how Boo's body language changes after he sees the other dog.  While he is still in this state, I moved too quickly for him.  He became scared and did what he has learned to do in the past, which is to bite and lunge to make that thing he is scared of go away.

When working with a reactive dog such as Boo, it is important to remember to always be aware of your body language and movements.  I moved quickly after something had just happened that Boo had become aware of.  In Boo's mind, this was too much at once, which is why he lashed out.  Don't worry, he missed me.