BML2--Class #6

To improve all Cues:  we will apply a Reward Grading Scale.  

This means that you must know what your dog likes best.  For this scale, we will reward with a low level treat for an okay performance of a command.  As the dog improves on each command, the training grade is higher, and therefore the reward should be greater.  A Jackpot Reward means giving the dog several treats quickly after performing a behavior exceptionally well.

Fetch:

Practice and improve on your game of fetch.

Rules of Fetch:

1. Dog must Sit.
2. Dog must Look.
3. Fetch.
4. Dog returns toy.
5. Dog drops toy.
6. Repeat.

Drop It/ Give:

Practice Drop It and/or Give with your dog.

Once the dog has the toy and is engaged with it, present a treat or reward of equal or higher value than the toy, as the dog drops the toy, say “Drop.”  It is very important to give the reward to the dog AT THE SAME TIME as you pick up the dropped toy.

Take it:

To practice, start with food the dog likes, present the food and say “Take It.”  

Move up to using items to practice.

Heel:

Start with the Basic Heel position, the Stationary Heel.

Use your left hand to food lure the dog into the Heel position at your left side.  If you need, take a step back with your left leg to encourage the dog to move.  Once the dog is in the Heel position, practice a Sit and Look.

Moving Heel:

Food lure the dog, now turn your body so the dog is now on the left side in Heel position (use the treat in your left hand).

—Always begin and end every Heel exercise with a Sit in the Heel position.

—When you stop moving forward, move your baited hand UP slightly to initiate Sit.

—As you are moving forward, the treat should be held up slightly from the dog so she is looking for it.  Gradually progress to moving your hand all the way up to the Look position.  

Greeting a Stranger while walking in Heel:

You and your dog will walk up to another person with their dog.  To start, the dogs will be on the outside.  Begin walking in Heel towards each other; when you meet in the middle you will both stop, have your dogs sit, and then the humans will say hello.  Then you will give your “Let’s Go,” and continue walking in the Heel position.

Come When Called, adding Distance & Distractions:

Practice Come When Called with various distances & distractions.

The Steps:

1. Say the dog’s name and Come, one time only.
2. Have a party.
3. Lure (or gently lead) the dog back to you.

Stay, adding Distance & Distractions:
Practice Stay with various distances & distractions.  Stay means to a dog, wait here until I come back to you to release you.  Stay always means you are coming back to the dog to release him. 

Wait, with Recall & Long Line Leash:

This is similar to the Stay command, but different.  Wait means to a dog, stay here until I give you something else to do.  Wait is usually followed by a Come command.

Practice Wait with Recall and Wait with a Long Line Leash.

*Always remember to use positive reinforcement training methods, combined with energy balance.  Dogs want to please and are capable of learning almost anything you might want to teach.  Be patient and consistent with your dog.

Trainer Tips--Grass eating dogs.

People often ask me about their dogs eating grass and if it is okay for them to do so.  There are many different reasons dogs eat grass, but we honestly don't know for sure why.  Different dogs may eat grass for different reasons.  Less than 10% of dogs who eat grass showed symptoms of being ill before doing so, and less than 25% of dogs vomit grass back up after eating it.  Below is a list of possible reasons your dog may eat grass.


Grass is tasty:

Dogs are scavengers by nature and are therefore programmed to search for possible nutrition anywhere they can find it.  It is very possible (and likely) that your dog happens to find the texture or flavor of the grass tasty.  




Missing something in their diet:

Dogs may also eat grass because they are missing something in their regular diet.  If your dog's nutritional needs are not being properly fulfilled, he may try and substitute his diet with some grass.  If you think this may be the case for your dog, try switching to a high-fiber dog food.
Learn how to pick the perfect food for your dog here.


Your Dog is Bored:
In some cases, a dog may engage in grass munching simply because he is bored.  Be sure that your dog is getting regular daily exercise.  It is also important to be sure your dog is being mentally challenged and stimulated.  Engage your pup in some training activities or buy him an interactive dog toy.  Sometimes if you simply provide your dog with a proper toy or chew bone, they will stop eating grass.



Your Dog is Thirsty:

You may also notice when you hike or play fetch with your dog they may have the urge to eat grass.  This may be because they are thirsty and there is no water currently available to drink.  Simply giving your dog water at this time may curb the grass eating.  My dogs often munch on grass in between games of fetch or when we are out hiking.


Stomach Distress:

Some vets will tell you that a dog eating grass is a sign of self-medication, usually due to an upset stomach.  If the behavior started suddenly, this may be the case for your dog.  In some cases this may be a sign of something more serious.  If your dog continues to eat grass and vomit it back up, you should contact your vet.



Time of Year:

Many dogs who do not eat grass often or at all may do so only during certain times of the year.  This happens most often in Spring, when the grass is more likely to be new, making it taste somewhat more sweet to your dog.  If this is something your dog does, I would not worry.  Or if your dog eats grass only sometimes but really goes for it a few times a year, this is probably what is happening.  Again, probably not anything to worry about (unless the dog consistently vomits it back up).



Should I be worried?
For most dogs eating grass is a very normal behavior.  If it is something your dog does on a semi-regular basis or during the Spring, it is not something I would worry about.  If, however, your dog eats grass and vomits it back up over more than one day, I would recommend talking to your vet.

All three of our dogs eat grass on a semi-regular basis and do tend to go a little extra crazy for it during certain times of the year.  This is normal behavior for them and they do not have any issues.

Happy Birthday Devo!

Devo turns ONE YEAR OLD today!  Happy Birthday to our baby!

Devo is a Miniature Pincher/ Chihuahua mix.  He was adopted from Maui Humane Society.

Devo is certified as a Service Dog and regularly assists in SGDs training and activities.

Devo helping nervous dog Emmy come out of her shell.

Devo with Emmy (& Caravaggio).

Adam working with Devo in our Level 2 training class.

Devo working as a Service Dog at Costco.

As a tradition, I have gotten and will get all my dog's paws tattooed on me.  The logo I use for my business is actually the first three paws I have tattooed on me (2 of those dogs we still currently have...Nekita & Caravaggio).  Each dog's paw was put on our scanner and copied so that I could get an exact paw print of that dog.

So to celebrate Devo's first birthday, I added his paw print to my collection.  I am very proud and excited to show them off!

BML2--Class #5: Adventure Hike

Athena with her dog pack.

Class #5 of Basic Manners is a Group Adventure Hike.  All dogs and their owners will be accompanied by Athena and her pack on a group dog adventure hike.  We will practice using a long line leash during this hike.  Owners and dogs will also practice:  Look, Heel, Loose Leash Walking, and basic socialization skills.

Mac, Devo, Maybe, Caravaggio, & Nekita.

Mac, Devo, Maybe, Caravaggio, & Nekita.

Teefus is working on his dog aggression.

Although he has improved a lot, he still sometimes wears a muzzle for safety.

The dogs with Mac's mom.

Mac & Maybe loving their dog adventure hike!

Dog Breeds--Dog Apps/ Reference

Dog Breeds

iPhone Apps for Dogs/ Dog Reference

Updated:  September 11, 2013

FREE

Another helpful app that I would recommend.  This app will allow you to select from a list of known dog breeds.  Once you have chosen, the app reveals a picture of the breed with basic information including:  description, appearance, temperament, and health and physiology.

Although this app is a great reference, I prefer the Perfect Dog app.  The applications are basically identical, except the Perfect Dog app is easier to use, and contains more information.  

BML2--Class #4

Heel:

The Heel position is about the dog staying close to the handler and paying close attention.  We will start with the Basic Heel position, the Stationary Heel.

To do this, we will food lure the dog into the Heel position at our left side.  Use your left hand to food lure the dog into the position.  If you need, take a step back with your left leg to encourage the dog to move.  Once the dog is in the Heel position, practice a Sit and Look. 

Moving Heel:  

1. Food lure the dog several times while backing up.
2. Food lure the dog, now turn your body so the dog is now on the left side in Heel position (use the treat in your left hand).

—Always begin and end every Heel exercise with a Sit in the Heel position.

—When you stop moving forward, move your baited hand UP slightly to initiate the Sit position.

—As you are moving forward, the treat should be held up slightly from the dog so she is looking for it.  Gradually progress to moving your hand all the way up to the Look position.  

Wait with Recall:

This is similar to the Stay command, but different.  Stay means to a dog, wait here until I come back to you to release you.  Stay always means you are coming back to the dog to release him.  Wait means to a dog, stay here until I give you something else to do.  Wait is usually followed by a Come command.

We will start similar to the Stay Cue.  Start in front of the dog, give your command, “Wait” (while giving the Stay hand signal), slowly back up a few steps while putting your hand down.  Turn to face the dog.  If the dog has stayed in place, say your Good, and call the dog to Come.  Reward and praise lavishly when the dog reaches you.

Wait with a Long Line Leash:

For this we will walk with our dog on the long line leash.  Allow the dog to wonder around ahead of you a little ways.  Once the dog is about 10 feet in front of you, give your “Wait” command while stepping on the leash at the same time.  This will force the dog to stop moving forward.  Walk up the leash until you reach the dog.  Give the dog their “Good” then “Let’s Go” and continue walking.

Come When Called:

Practice Come When Called with various distances and distractions.

You may also do this by playing Puppy Ping Pong game.

The Steps:

1. Say the dog’s name and Come, one time only.
2. Have a party.
3. Lure (or gently lead) the dog back to you.

Drop It/ Give:

Practice Drop It and/or Give with your dog.

Once the dog has the toy and is engaged with it, present a treat or reward of equal or higher value than the toy, as the dog drops the toy, say “Drop.”  It is very important to give the reward to the dog AT THE SAME TIME as you pick up the dropped toy.

Take it:

Some dogs are not prone to putting their mouths on items and must be encouraged to do so using the Take It command.  To practice, start with food the dog likes, present the food and say “Take It.”  Move up to using items to practice.

Fetch:

Fetch is very helpful game that every owner should teach their dog.  It is an excellent  way to exercise your dog without wearing yourself out. 

Rules of Fetch:

1. Dog must Sit.
2. Dog must Look.
3. Fetch.
4. Dog returns toy.
5. Dog drops toy.
6. Repeat.

To start, we must have a toy that the dog likes.  Get the dog interested in the toy, then throw it a 2-4 feet away.  Say “Fetch” as you throw the toy in a very energetic, excited voice.  When the dog reaches the toy, praise if he touches it with his mouth.  Encourage the dog to pick up the toy.  When he does, say your “Good!”  Use Come when Called to encourage the dog to return to you with the toy.  If the dog drops the toy along the way, give your “Uh-oh,” return to the toy and encourage the dog to pick it up again.  When the dog returns with the toy, DO NOT REACH OUT TO GRAB IT.  The dog must learn to bring it to you.  Once the dog is within one foot of you, grab the toy and encourage the dog to drop using your “Drop It” command.  When he does, give your “Good!”  Have the dog Sit.  Good!  Wait a few second; use the toy to practice “Look.”  Once the dog looks in your eyes, throw the toy and say “Fetch.”

BML2--Class #3

Heel:

The Heel position is about the dog staying close to the handler and paying close attention.  We will start with the Basic Heel position, the Stationary Heel.

To do this, we will food lure the dog into the Heel position at our left side.  Use your left hand to food lure the dog into the position.  If you need, take a step back with your left leg to encourage the dog to move.  Once the dog is in the Heel position, practice a Sit and Look. 

Moving Heel:

 

1. Food lure the dog several times while backing up.
2. Food lure the dog, now turn your body so the dog is now on the left side in Heel position (use the treat in your left hand).

—Always begin and end every Heel exercise with a Sit in the Heel position.

—When you stop moving forward, move your baited hand UP slightly to initiate the Sit position.

—As you are moving forward, the treat should be held up slightly from the dog so she is looking for it.  Gradually progress to moving your hand all the way up to the Look position.  

Adding Distractions to Heel:

Practice Heel while walking past and around other dogs and distractions in class.  During this exercise, keep your dog focused on you.  Use your Look/ Watch Me Cue to keep your dog’s attention or continue to use the food lure while walking in Heel.

Greeting a Stranger while walking in Heel:

For this exercise we will practice walking your dog in Heel.  You and your dog will walk up to another person with their dog.  To start, the dogs will be on the outside.  Begin walking in Heel towards each other; when you meet in the middle you will both stop, have your dogs sit, and then the humans will say hello.  Then you will give your “Let’s Go,” and continue walking in the Heel exercise.

Stay:

Means to your dog, stay in this position until I come back to release you.  This is not the same thing as Wait.  For this exercise, the dog should either be in the Sit or Down position.  Some owners prefer to have a specific Sit-Stay and Down-Stay as separate commands.  If you would like to do this, please let your trainer know.

There are 3 parts to the Stay Cue:

1. Duration (Time)
2. Distance 
3. Distractions

Adding Distance to Stay:

We will start by slowly adding distance to the Stay command.  Start with one step backwards, then quickly return forwards to the dog and reward.  Then add two steps, pause, return and reward.  Slowly begin to add distance.  If your dog gets up, take the training back a step and make it easier (don’t add as much distance).

Adding Distractions to Stay:

To add a new part of the Stay cue, we must take the other parts of the cue back down to zero.  That means, since we are now adding distractions, the distance and duration of the Stay should be near zero.  You will start by dropping or tossing mild distractions while asking the dog to Stay.  We will slowly begin adding more difficult distractions.

Come When Called:

Practice Come When Called with various distances and distractions.

The Rules:

1. Safety first.  Always have a leash or be in an enclosed area.
2. When you say come, you have to see it happen.
3. NEVER punish a dog for coming to you.

The Steps:

1. Say the dog’s name and Come, one time only.
2. Have a party.
3. Lure (or gently lead) the dog back to you.

Practice Look, Sit, Down, & Stand:

Practice each cue and make the dog hold the position longer before the reward.  Be sure to say your Reward Marker, “Good,” the instant the dog performs the behavior, but withhold the treat for a few seconds.  Make the dog wait longer and longer for the reward.  When rewarding, praise lavishly.

Breed of the Month--Chow Chow

Chow Chow

Color:  Solid color, cream, fawn, blue, red, black.
Height:  Males:  18-22 inches/  Females:  17-20 inches
Weight:  45-70 pounds
Life Span:  13-15 year

Breed Health Concerns:  Hip dysplasia, thyroid problems, elbow dysplasia, ectropion, patellar lunation, and entropion.

Coat:  Two Types:  Rough Coat has dense, straight autocrat with a thick, wooly, soft undercoat.  Smooth Coat has dense, hard, smooth autocrat with definite undercoat.
Country of Origin:  China.

Visit the American Kennel Club for breed standards and more information.


The Chow Chow can be traced to 11th century BCE.  Sculptures and pottery from 150 BCE depict Chow-like dogs hunting.  In China, the Chow Chow was considered a delicacy.  Eating the flesh of the dog was (and still is) common.  For many centuries the Chow Chow was not seen outside of China.  Around 1780, sailors smuggled the breed out of the country.  Their popularity quickly increased due to the dog's unique look and distinguishing features including its blue-black tongue, gums, and lips.  

The Chow Chow is generally aloof with strangers but will typically bong strongly to one person.  It is said that the Chow will not obey his master, but would be ready and willing to die for him.  

Exercise:  
Although the Chow Chow does not need a ton of exercise, daily regular walks are important to keep the breed in good shape.

Grooming:  
Extra care must be taken to keep the flaps around the dog's face clean, dry, and free from dirt and debris.  Both coat types of the Chow Chow need regular brushing with a steel comb.  The fur around the Chow Chow's ears is thick and may trap dirt and also must be kept clean.

Training:  

The Chow Chow is naturally protective and aloof and must be properly socialized from puppyhood.  The Chow Chow does not like to be pushed, and requires a trainer who is both firm and fair.  Using positive reinforcement training methods for this breed is a must.