Review of what's rewarding to dogs:
1. Eye Contact
2. Voice
3. Touch
Anti-jumping / Auto-sit:
We want the dog to learn that anytime someone walks over to you, you put your butt on the ground.
(Demonstration and practice in class). I walk around to all the dogs in class several times and reward behavior I like. If I walk up to your dog and he offers a sit, I will say "Good" and treat.
When teaching a dog not to jump it is very important to remember to not reward the wrong behavior. Therefore anytime a dog jumps on you, you will say nothing, you will turn your back and ignore the dog (often pulling your arms up and crossing them also helps.) If a dog jumps on you do not say "No" (voice reward), do not push their paws off you (touch reward), and do not look at the dog (eye contact). When a dog can remain with all four feet on the floor ("4 on the Floor"), say good and reward the dog. This exercise can be a good one to work in what we call "real life rewards." These are things like petting, being fed, getting a little extra love, etc. You should always make your dog earn what he gets, even when considering "real life rewards" like these.
Practice "Watch Me"
Re-cap on the exercise and questions in class.
Food Lure Sit, Down, Stand:
We will use food lures (if necessary) to teach these cues to our dogs. Some of these basic dog obedience cues may have already been learned. This is good, we can use the dog's current knowledge of each cue and progress further to adding the hand signals.
(Demonstrated in class).
Practice, Come when called
Re-cap of the exercise and questions in class.
We now add all 3 steps of Come when called to the exercise.
Impulse Control:
Teaching a dog how to control his natural impulses can be very helpful in our everyday lives. For example I don't want my dog to run out in the street in front of a car because he's chasing a squirrel or rabbit. Controlling your dog's impulses helps keep him safe.
In this exercise we ultimately want the dog to look back to you for guidance when he is unable to get the treat. When first beginning, however, we are simply looking for the dog to control his instinct to snatch the treat from your hand or off the ground. We do this in two exercises.
1. Put the treat in front of the dog's nose. The dog must hold his head still in the presence of the treat to receive the treat.
2. Toss the treat on the floor in front of the dog. The dog must look away from the treat and at you to be allowed to get the treat.
(Demonstrated in class).
Remember, every time your dog does what you are looking, mark the behavior with your marker word "Good," and treat.
1. Eye Contact
2. Voice
3. Touch
Anti-jumping / Auto-sit:
We want the dog to learn that anytime someone walks over to you, you put your butt on the ground.
(Demonstration and practice in class). I walk around to all the dogs in class several times and reward behavior I like. If I walk up to your dog and he offers a sit, I will say "Good" and treat.
When teaching a dog not to jump it is very important to remember to not reward the wrong behavior. Therefore anytime a dog jumps on you, you will say nothing, you will turn your back and ignore the dog (often pulling your arms up and crossing them also helps.) If a dog jumps on you do not say "No" (voice reward), do not push their paws off you (touch reward), and do not look at the dog (eye contact). When a dog can remain with all four feet on the floor ("4 on the Floor"), say good and reward the dog. This exercise can be a good one to work in what we call "real life rewards." These are things like petting, being fed, getting a little extra love, etc. You should always make your dog earn what he gets, even when considering "real life rewards" like these.
Practice "Watch Me"
Re-cap on the exercise and questions in class.
Food Lure Sit, Down, Stand:
We will use food lures (if necessary) to teach these cues to our dogs. Some of these basic dog obedience cues may have already been learned. This is good, we can use the dog's current knowledge of each cue and progress further to adding the hand signals.
(Demonstrated in class).
Practice, Come when called
Re-cap of the exercise and questions in class.
We now add all 3 steps of Come when called to the exercise.
Impulse Control:
Teaching a dog how to control his natural impulses can be very helpful in our everyday lives. For example I don't want my dog to run out in the street in front of a car because he's chasing a squirrel or rabbit. Controlling your dog's impulses helps keep him safe.
In this exercise we ultimately want the dog to look back to you for guidance when he is unable to get the treat. When first beginning, however, we are simply looking for the dog to control his instinct to snatch the treat from your hand or off the ground. We do this in two exercises.
1. Put the treat in front of the dog's nose. The dog must hold his head still in the presence of the treat to receive the treat.
2. Toss the treat on the floor in front of the dog. The dog must look away from the treat and at you to be allowed to get the treat.
(Demonstrated in class).
Remember, every time your dog does what you are looking, mark the behavior with your marker word "Good," and treat.
No comments:
Post a Comment