Teaching "Wait"

Teaching your dog a reliable Stay and Wait is something every good dog owner should want. See below to start with training your dog to Stay. As your dog gets better, make the training a little more difficult. If your dog makes a mistake a few times, take the training back a step. Always set your dog up to succeed.

Teaching your dog to "Wait" is a fantastic and helpful command.  It will also help teach your dog patience and help you in your every day life with your dog.

Stay:

Means to a dog:  Stay in this place until I come BACK TO YOU to release you.

Wait:

Means to a dog:  Stay in this place until I ask you to do something else.  

ANOTHER CUE will follow the wait command.

First you must start by teaching a proper Stay command.  Do not move onto teaching the Wait command until you have trained the Stay command in all 3 parts.

3 Parts to the Stay Cue:

1.  Duration (time)

2.  Distance

3.  Distraction

Release Cue:

This means to a dog, you are now free to do what you want.  Common Release Cues include:  Break, Free, & Go.  I highly discourage owners from using “Okay” as a release cue.  This is a very commonly used phrase, and your dog may be randomly released by a passing stranger.  Use commands that are not common in every day speech.

Training your dog to "Stay:  Step One."

Training your dog to "Stay:  Step Two."

To teach the Stay cue, put the dog into a Sit position next to you.  Teaching the Stay is another command you will need 2 hands for.  One hand will be giving your stop sign hand signal while the other hand delivers treats.  Put the leash under your foot to work without the distraction.  For this, you will also need a Release Cue.  Basically, you will rapidly feed your dog treats to remain in the Stay position.  We are teaching the dog that remaining in a Stay is highly rewarding.  As your dog is chewing the last treat, give your “Good,” then quickly give your Release Cue while turning on your heels and walking away.  Do not worry if your dog does not immediately follow.  After a few practice sessions, they will easily pick up the Release Cue.

To improve the cue, gradually make the dog wait longer between treats.  At first there may only be 1-3 seconds between treats.  As your dog improves, start making it harder and harder by making the dog wait a little longer between rewards.  Do not go too fast.  If you feel the dog is going to break the Stay, either treat them before they move, or release the dog before they release themselves.
It is VERY IMPORTANT to build up time before adding distance or distractions.  Building up a reliable Stay with time will make it easy to transition into training distance and distractions.  You should be able to get your dog to Stay for at least one minute before moving to adding distance.  Work on improving only one part of the stay cue at a time.  First duration, then distance, then distractions.

Other helpful links:

Heel

Come when Called Step One

Come when Called Step Two

Come when Called Off leash

Come when Called with Distractions

Stay, Step Two: Distance

After getting your dog's duration or time built up on the Stay command (you should be able to get to at least one minute with three treats or less), it is time to start working on adding Distance.  Remember, any time you are working on building up one of the three parts of the Stay cue, the other two should be as low as possible.  So when starting work on adding Distance, there should be short Duration (time), and minimal or no distractions.

3 Parts to the Stay Cue:

1.  Duration (time)

2.  Distance

3.  Distraction

Release Cue:

This means to a dog, you are now free to do what you want.  Common Release Cues include:  Break, Free, & Release.  I highly discourage owners from using “Okay” as a release cue.  This is a very commonly used phrase, and your dog may be randomly released by a passing stranger.  Use commands that are not common in every day speech.

Other helpful Blog articles:

Stay, Step One:  Duration (time).

Heel

Above is an instructional video on how to teach your dog a proper "Heel."  Below I have included more information on how to teach this.  Remember that Heel means the dog is in a specific position.  Heel is not something that should be used constantly on your every day walks.  Your dog needs the opportunity to explore their surroundings.  For every day walking, use "Loose Leash Walking."

Heel:

The Heel position is about the dog staying close to the handler and paying close attention.  We will start with the Basic Heel position, the Stationary Heel.

To do this, we will food lure the dog into the Heel position at our left side.  Use your left hand to food lure the dog into the position.  If you need, take a step back with your left leg to encourage the dog to move.  Once the dog is in the Heel position, practice a Sit and Look. 

Moving Heel:  

1. Food lure the dog several times while backing up.
2. Food lure the dog, now turn your body so the dog is now on the left side in Heel position (use the treat in your left hand).

Always begin and end every Heel exercise with a Sit in the Heel position.

When you stop moving forward, move your baited hand UP slightly to initiate the Sit position.

As you are moving forward, the treat should be held up slightly from the dog so she is looking for it.  Gradually progress to moving your hand all the way up to the Look position.  

Loose Leash Walking:

Loose leash walking (LLW) means that a dog walks nicely, not pulling on the leash, and not completely all over the place.  LLW is not the same thing as Heel.  To teach a proper Heel, you must first teach LLW.

Consistency is very important when teaching LLW.  Doing this technique is actually very easy, but does require a LOT of patience.  Remember to stay calm.  If you are calm and consistent, your dog will be walking nicely on a leash in about a week.

To begin, go out for a walk with your regular 4-6 foot leash and buckle collar properly fitted to your dog’s neck (so they can’t slip out).  As soon as there is tension on the leash, you have two options:

When the dog pulls:  1)  Stop and wait for the DOG to move in a way that releases the tension.  When s/he does, continue walking.

2)  Say “Let’s Go!” and walk off in the opposite direction.

Related Blog articles:

Trainer Tip Video:  How to Walk on a Leash

Trainer Tip Video:  How to walk a scared or timid dog

Trainer Tip Video:  Having your dog off leash

Teaching Stay, Step One

Come when Called

Stay, Step One: Duration (time).

Teaching your dog to STAY.
Step One:  Duration (time).

Stay:

Means to a dog:  Stay in this place until I come BACK TO YOU to release you.

Practice this cue FIRST.

Wait:

Means to a dog:  Stay in this place until I ask you to do something else.  

ANOTHER CUE will follow the wait command.

First you must start by teaching a proper Stay command.  Do not move onto teaching the Wait command until you have trained the Stay command in all 3 parts.

3 Parts to the Stay Cue:

1.  Duration (time)

2.  Distance

3.  Distraction

Release Cue:

This means to a dog, you are now free to do what you want.  Common Release Cues include:  Break, Free, & Release.  I highly discourage owners from using “Okay” as a release cue.  This is a very commonly used phrase, and your dog may be randomly released by a passing stranger.  Use commands that are not common in every day speech.

To teach the Stay cue, put the dog into a Sit position in front of you.  Teaching the Stay is command you will need 2 hands for.  One hand will be giving your stop sign hand signal while the other hand delivers treats.  Put the leash under your foot to work without the distraction.  For this, you will also need a Release Cue.  Basically, you will rapidly feed your dog treats to remain in the Stay position.  We are teaching the dog that remaining in a Stay is highly rewarding.  As your dog is chewing the last treat, give your “Good,” then quickly give your Release Cue while turning on your heels and walking away.  Do not worry if your dog does not immediately follow.  After a few practice sessions, they will easily pick up the Release Cue.

To improve the cue, gradually make the dog wait longer between treats.  At first there may only be 1-3 seconds between treats.  As your dog improves, start making it harder and harder by making the dog wait a little longer between rewards.  Do not go too fast.  If you feel the dog is going to break the Stay, either treat them before they move, or release the dog before they release themselves.
It is VERY IMPORTANT to build up time before adding distance or distractions.  Building up a reliable Stay with time will make it easy to transition into training distance and distractions.  You should be able to get your dog to Stay for at least one minute before moving to adding distance.  Work on improving only one part of the stay cue at a time.  First duration, then distance, then distractions.

Related blog articles:
Stay, Step Two:  Distance

Puppy Party with Bambu

Stay with Distance

Basic Manners Level Two Class:  practicing Stay with Distractions.

Stay:

Means to your dog, stay in this position until I come back to release you.  This is not the same thing as Wait.  For this exercise, the dog should either be in the Sit or Down position.  Some owners prefer to have a specific Sit-Stay and Down-Stay as separate commands.  If you would like to do this, please let your trainer know.

There are 3 parts to the Stay Cue:  1) Duration (Time), 2) Distance, 3) Distractions

Adding Distance to Stay:

We will start by slowly adding distance to the Stay command.  Start with one step backwards, then quickly return forwards to the dog and reward.  Then add two steps, pause, return and reward.  Slowly begin to add distance.  If your dog gets up, take the training back a step and make it easier (don’t add as much distance).

Adding Distractions to Stay:

To add a new part of the Stay cue, we must take the other parts of the cue back down to zero.  That means, since we are now adding distractions, the distance and duration of the Stay should be near zero.  You will start by dropping or tossing mild distractions while asking the dog to Stay.  We will slowly begin adding more difficult distractions.

Check out SGDs YouTube to get the full videos on how to teach your dog the beginning steps of Stay.

Stay:  Step 1, Duration (or time).

Stay:  Step 2, adding Distance.

BML2--Class #6

To improve all Cues:  we will apply a Reward Grading Scale.  

This means that you must know what your dog likes best.  For this scale, we will reward with a low level treat for an okay performance of a command.  As the dog improves on each command, the training grade is higher, and therefore the reward should be greater.  A Jackpot Reward means giving the dog several treats quickly after performing a behavior exceptionally well.

Fetch:

Practice and improve on your game of fetch.

Rules of Fetch:

1. Dog must Sit.
2. Dog must Look.
3. Fetch.
4. Dog returns toy.
5. Dog drops toy.
6. Repeat.

Drop It/ Give:

Practice Drop It and/or Give with your dog.

Once the dog has the toy and is engaged with it, present a treat or reward of equal or higher value than the toy, as the dog drops the toy, say “Drop.”  It is very important to give the reward to the dog AT THE SAME TIME as you pick up the dropped toy.

Take it:

To practice, start with food the dog likes, present the food and say “Take It.”  

Move up to using items to practice.

Heel:

Start with the Basic Heel position, the Stationary Heel.

Use your left hand to food lure the dog into the Heel position at your left side.  If you need, take a step back with your left leg to encourage the dog to move.  Once the dog is in the Heel position, practice a Sit and Look.

Moving Heel:

Food lure the dog, now turn your body so the dog is now on the left side in Heel position (use the treat in your left hand).

—Always begin and end every Heel exercise with a Sit in the Heel position.

—When you stop moving forward, move your baited hand UP slightly to initiate Sit.

—As you are moving forward, the treat should be held up slightly from the dog so she is looking for it.  Gradually progress to moving your hand all the way up to the Look position.  

Greeting a Stranger while walking in Heel:

You and your dog will walk up to another person with their dog.  To start, the dogs will be on the outside.  Begin walking in Heel towards each other; when you meet in the middle you will both stop, have your dogs sit, and then the humans will say hello.  Then you will give your “Let’s Go,” and continue walking in the Heel position.

Come When Called, adding Distance & Distractions:

Practice Come When Called with various distances & distractions.

The Steps:

1. Say the dog’s name and Come, one time only.
2. Have a party.
3. Lure (or gently lead) the dog back to you.

Stay, adding Distance & Distractions:
Practice Stay with various distances & distractions.  Stay means to a dog, wait here until I come back to you to release you.  Stay always means you are coming back to the dog to release him. 

Wait, with Recall & Long Line Leash:

This is similar to the Stay command, but different.  Wait means to a dog, stay here until I give you something else to do.  Wait is usually followed by a Come command.

Practice Wait with Recall and Wait with a Long Line Leash.

*Always remember to use positive reinforcement training methods, combined with energy balance.  Dogs want to please and are capable of learning almost anything you might want to teach.  Be patient and consistent with your dog.

BML2--Class #3

Heel:

The Heel position is about the dog staying close to the handler and paying close attention.  We will start with the Basic Heel position, the Stationary Heel.

To do this, we will food lure the dog into the Heel position at our left side.  Use your left hand to food lure the dog into the position.  If you need, take a step back with your left leg to encourage the dog to move.  Once the dog is in the Heel position, practice a Sit and Look. 

Moving Heel:

 

1. Food lure the dog several times while backing up.
2. Food lure the dog, now turn your body so the dog is now on the left side in Heel position (use the treat in your left hand).

—Always begin and end every Heel exercise with a Sit in the Heel position.

—When you stop moving forward, move your baited hand UP slightly to initiate the Sit position.

—As you are moving forward, the treat should be held up slightly from the dog so she is looking for it.  Gradually progress to moving your hand all the way up to the Look position.  

Adding Distractions to Heel:

Practice Heel while walking past and around other dogs and distractions in class.  During this exercise, keep your dog focused on you.  Use your Look/ Watch Me Cue to keep your dog’s attention or continue to use the food lure while walking in Heel.

Greeting a Stranger while walking in Heel:

For this exercise we will practice walking your dog in Heel.  You and your dog will walk up to another person with their dog.  To start, the dogs will be on the outside.  Begin walking in Heel towards each other; when you meet in the middle you will both stop, have your dogs sit, and then the humans will say hello.  Then you will give your “Let’s Go,” and continue walking in the Heel exercise.

Stay:

Means to your dog, stay in this position until I come back to release you.  This is not the same thing as Wait.  For this exercise, the dog should either be in the Sit or Down position.  Some owners prefer to have a specific Sit-Stay and Down-Stay as separate commands.  If you would like to do this, please let your trainer know.

There are 3 parts to the Stay Cue:

1. Duration (Time)
2. Distance 
3. Distractions

Adding Distance to Stay:

We will start by slowly adding distance to the Stay command.  Start with one step backwards, then quickly return forwards to the dog and reward.  Then add two steps, pause, return and reward.  Slowly begin to add distance.  If your dog gets up, take the training back a step and make it easier (don’t add as much distance).

Adding Distractions to Stay:

To add a new part of the Stay cue, we must take the other parts of the cue back down to zero.  That means, since we are now adding distractions, the distance and duration of the Stay should be near zero.  You will start by dropping or tossing mild distractions while asking the dog to Stay.  We will slowly begin adding more difficult distractions.

Come When Called:

Practice Come When Called with various distances and distractions.

The Rules:

1. Safety first.  Always have a leash or be in an enclosed area.
2. When you say come, you have to see it happen.
3. NEVER punish a dog for coming to you.

The Steps:

1. Say the dog’s name and Come, one time only.
2. Have a party.
3. Lure (or gently lead) the dog back to you.

Practice Look, Sit, Down, & Stand:

Practice each cue and make the dog hold the position longer before the reward.  Be sure to say your Reward Marker, “Good,” the instant the dog performs the behavior, but withhold the treat for a few seconds.  Make the dog wait longer and longer for the reward.  When rewarding, praise lavishly.

BML2--Class #2

Heel:

The Heel position is about the dog staying close to the handler and paying close attention.  We will start with the Basic Heel position, the Stationary Heel.

To do this, we will food lure the dog into the Heel position at our left side.  Use your left hand to food lure the dog into the position.  If you need, take a step back with your left leg to encourage the dog to move.  Once the dog is in the Heel position, practice a Sit and Look. 

Moving Heel:  

1. Food lure the dog several times while backing up.
2. Food lure the dog, now turn your body so the dog is now on the left side in Heel position (use the treat in your left hand).

—Always begin and end every Heel exercise with a Sit in the Heel position.

—When you stop moving forward, move your baited hand UP slightly to initiate the Sit position.

—As you are moving forward, the treat should be held up slightly from the dog so she is looking for it.  Gradually progress to moving your hand all the way up to the Look position.  

Come When Called:

(Puppy Ping Pong and Hide & Seek Games)

The Rules:

1. Safety first.  Always have a leash or be in an enclosed area.
2. When you say come, you have to see it happen.
3. NEVER punish a dog for coming to you.

The Steps:

1. Say the dog’s name and Come, one time only.
2. Have a party.
3. Lure (or gently lead) the dog back to you.

Remember, each cue/command has three parts to build up or work on:  

1. Duration (Time)
2. Distance
3. Distractions

To improve the Cue:  we will apply a Reward Grading Scale.  

This means that you must know what your dog likes best.  For this scale, we will reward with a low level treat for an okay recall.  As the dog improves on speed and direction, the training grade is higher, and therefore the reward should be greater.  Once the dog runs the distance quickly and directly to you, use a Jackpot Reward.  This means giving the dog several treats quickly after performing a behavior exceptionally well.

Practice Come when Called while adding Distance.  

We will start at a distance where we know the dog will currently respond to Come, then slowly start adding distance each time.  If the dog does not do well, take the training back a step (move closer to the dog).  Remember to progress slowly.  Be sure to attach your long line dog leash for this training.  For this, it is helpful to have two people for each dog.  This will make this exercise much easier to practice.  (Puppy Ping Pong Game).  Remember to practice all 3 Steps of Come When Called each time (as needed).  

Come when Called while adding Distractions.

Next we will try adding distractions to Come when Called.  To begin, we will start at a lower distance then was just practiced.  Keep your long ling training leash attached.  Now we will practice Come when Called while adding distractions.  For this we will use other dogs and people from class, as well as objects to try and distract your dog during the Come command.  Be sure to take this training very slowly.  Heavily reward your dog for ignoring the distraction(s) and coming to you.  Slowly add more difficult distractions.  Remember to use your Reward Grading Scale.  For better recalls, reward more lavishly with better treats.

Practice Look, Sit, Down, & Stand:

Finally we will practice some Basic Manners.  Practice each cue and make the dog hold the position longer before the reward.  Be sure to say your Reward Marker, “Good,” the instant the dog performs the behavior, but withhold the treat for a few seconds.  Make the dog wait longer and longer for the reward.  When rewarding, praise lavishly.

Practice Stay:

For Week 3 class we will be adding Distance and Distractions to the Stay cue.  So for this week, practice the Stay cue without distance and distractions.  Simply work on building up Duration, or time.

BML1--Class #6

Dogs from L to R:  Hope, Koa, Boone, Maybe, Devo, & Ogi.

Basic Manners Level One:

Positive Reinforcement Training

Energy Balance

Marker Word

No Reward Marker

Food Lure

Look/ Watch Me, Basic & the T position

Come when Called, 3 Steps & 3 Rules

Loose Leash Walking

Sit & Auto-Sit

Down

Up/ Stand

(Hand Signals)

Stay with Release Cue

Impulse Control

Leave It

Drop It

Class #6 of Basic Manners Level One is a review of all things learned.  We go over each cue and play different games to improve on each command.  At the end of class #6, each participant is given a certificate of completion.  Below are some pictures of the dogs working on "Stay."

Maybe.

Devo.

Boone.

Ogi.

REMEMBER to Keep Training Going:

Proper Exercise:  Every dog should be walked every day!

Good Relationship with the owner:  When you get frustrated, remember why you got your dog, he’s your buddy, he’s your pal.  Don’t take set-back’s personal.

Socialization:  It is very important to have a dog that is comfortable in as many different situations as possible.  Take your dog everywhere you can, but proceed at your dog’s pace.

Consistency:  Everyone in the household should have all the same rules, all the same cue words and commands, ALL THE TIME!

Generalizing:  Dogs do not generalize well.  It is important to practice everything you learn, everywhere you go.

Training Sessions:  Keep them short and sweet.  3-5 minutes a few times a day.