Trainer Tips--A "Place" Command

Besides the basics like sit and come, there are many helpful commands you can teach your dog to make both your lives easier.  Today we are going to discuss the "Place" command.

Teaching your dog to go to a specific spot, i.e. his "place," is an easy command to get started.  As with any new cue word, you may choose any word you like for this, as long as once you pick it, you stick with it.

Some Cue Word Suggestions:  Place, Bed, Spot.
I personally use the command "Bed" with my dogs because most of the time the "place" I am telling them to go will be their bed.  

To Begin:

Now to begin training this, you must first have some sort of object you can place on the ground that your dog can comfortable get onto.  Preferably something comfortable for the dog.  This can be a mat, rug, regular dog bed, or raised dog bed.  Anything that can be laid onto the ground with your dog on top.  Most people usually already have a dog bed for their pet at home.  That's a great place to start.  I do not recommend starting with something too large, heavy, or not easily moveable.  You want to be able to move the object (bed) to different locations to practice.

Be sure your dog is comfortable around his "place."  
Start by giving your cue word (whatever you have decided to call it...place, bed, etc), then Food Lure the dog onto the bed.  Once your dog is fully on the mat, rug, or bed, tell them your Reward Marker, "Good!" and reward with a tasty treat.  Repeat.

Food Lure:

This is something we use to teach many new behaviors and commands.  A food lure involves getting the dog to follow your baited hand into a desired position.  It is basically "attaching" your dog's nose to the food and encouraging them to follow it.

Reward Marker / Marker Word:

Use your chosen marker word:  “Good” or “Yes” (or the Clicker).

This is the word (or sound) that says to a dog, “Yes! That is exactly what I wanted you to do!” and is then followed with a reward.  Rewards do not necessarily have to be food.  Rewards are different for each dog but can include:  toys, bones, petting, praise, and even your calm energy.  

Improving the Command:

Once your dog starts to really get the idea, food lure less and less and instead start using the hand signal of pointing to the Place while saying the command word.  Once the dog goes to his place, calmly walk over and mark the behavior with your "GOOD!" and reward lavishly.  If you make the act of the dog going to spot a huge deal and reward him, he will want to do it and it will be easy to get him to him spot anytime you like.

This is also fantastic because you can now use the "Go to your Place" Cue to redirect a dog from bad behaviors such as barking or charging the door when a guest comes.

Trainer Tips: Introducing your new dog to the cat

I have recently had several clients with new puppies ask advice about how to get the cat and dog to get along.  Here are my thoughts on the subject.

Cats are a Prey animal:

Dogs are a predatory animal, whereas cats and other common pets (rabbits, guinea pigs, mice, gerbils, and farm animals such as horses, goats, sheep, etc.) are prey animals.  For a prey animal to truly become comfortable around a predator, they must feel safe.  In order for the animal to feel safe, you must be in control of the predator, or your dog.  

It's all about Energy:
Animals read other animals by their energy.  Your energy can send signals of intent.  For example, a cat can feel the energy behind a dog's want to chase him.  But if the dog has calm energy of his own and has no intent to chase or harm the cat, the cat can sense he is safe. 
In training your energy is very important.  Ever tried to train your dog when you were angry or frustrated?  Yeah didn't really get anywhere did you?  All animals, including our dogs read us by our energy.  That is why it is so important to remain CALM. 
I often use my calm energy as a barrier to a dog.  This is how you can "claim" something...anything from the cat, to a friend, or the front door.  Your energy, used correctly, can do wonders for you and your pets.

How to be in control of your dog:

Your dog needs training.  I obviously suggest seeking the help of a qualified dog trainer, but many people do train their dogs just fine on their own.  I do recommend at least a Basic Manners class to really get important basic commands down with your dog, and to help socialize them.  Most dog trainers know more than you think.  And a good trainer can offer several solutions to help curb any bad behavior problems.  Remember to seek out a trainer who uses positive reinforcement training methods.  Ask for references and to observe during a class or lesson to see what kind of vibe you get from that person, and how they interact with dogs and their owners.   

To be able to control your dog, you must have a good relationship.  That means giving your dog plenty of physical (walking) and mental (training) exercise.  Once you have established a good bond, here are a few methods to try to get your pets together.

Introducing the Cat to the Dog:

Create a Barrier:

Training the cat to be comfortable with the dog is really just showing the cat that you control the dog, and that you will not allow the dog to harm the cat in any way.

The best time to introduce your new dog to the cat is after the dog or puppy has had plenty of exercise and is in a calm state.  Generally, when a dog first sees a cat (or other household pet), they will be very curious and want to investigate.  This is a good thing.  But we must control HOW they do so.  I recommend creating an invisible barrier around yourself.  I like to use a wall of my own nice calm energy.  The dog is not allowed past this barrier.  The dog must learn to give you space when you ask for it.  If you are uncomfortable or nervous creating your own barrier, use a baby gate.
-----I also recommend practicing setting up barriers with your dog around the house.  Such as the dog is not allowed in the kitchen when preparing or eating food.  Practice your circle barrier (used here) with a toy in your lap before practicing with the cat (or other small prey animal).-----

Place the cat in your lap and hold the cat with one hand.  Make sure you are calm.  Try and stroke the cat calmly in your lap and get the cat to settle.  The other hand will be used to block the dog.  Since you have already started basic training with your dog, your dog should know an "uh-uh" command, meaning "I do not like this current behavior."  This is what you will say when the dog gets to close/ crosses your boundary line.  The more in control of your dog you are and the more calm you are, the easier this will be.  Remember to not stress your cat out too much.  If the cat has reached his point, let him go where he can easily escape away from the dog.  Remember it is YOUR job to protect the cat and make the cat feel that you will keep him SAFE!  Do this only a few minutes (2-10) the first couple times.  Allow your cat to come out and explore is he wants to, and encourage him to do so.  Treats are always nice.

If you are consistent in basic training with your dog, and remain calm during this exercise, eventually your dog will start showing signals of calming down.  Mark these things with your, "Good!"  These signals will include:  backing away, looking to the human more, siting or laying down outside the boundary.  Any time your dog shows these signals, mark that good behavior and reward (toss them a treat).

Impulse Control Approach:
Place your dog on a leash and have several small treats ready.  Have another human hold the cat (or lead of the farm animal) in a calm and comfortable way on the floor or couch.  Basically what we are training here is the dog's impulse to want to go after the cat.  Approach the cat with the dog on the leash.  You want to take a step or two, then stop.  If the dog does not react, praise.  If the dog looks at the cat then looks back to human, praise and treat.  Remain calm.  Calmly move 1-2 steps closer.  If the dog offers good behavior again, praise and treat.  If the dog lunges, barks, or tries to go after the cat, mark the bad behavior with your "eh-eh" or "uh-oh" and immediately move away from the cat a few steps until the dog calms down.  Once the dog and cat are calm, start over.  
The person holding the cat in this exercise should remember to also remain calm and make the cat feel that he is safe and protected.  The person holding the cat should ignore the dog.  If you are doing this exercise with a larger farm-type animal, I recommend the person holding the lead stand in between the animal and the dog, but still ignore the dog.

In the End:
Depending on the age of your pets when they are first introduced, they may never become the best of friends.  But they can certainly learn to tolerate each other and co-exist peacefully.  (The best way to guarantee they will become friends is to adopt them both at a young age and near the same time.)
I have heard several times that this cat and that dog will just never get along.  
It is possible.  Read about one of my stories here.

Breed of the Month--Great Dane

Great Dane

Color:  Black, blue, brindle, fawn, mantle, harlequin

Height:  Males:  30 inches/  Females:  28 inches

Weight:  Males:  119 lbs/ Females:  101.5 lbs

Life Span:  7-10 years

Breed Health Concerns:  Hip dysplasia, cardiomyopathy, bloat, cervical vertebral instability, osteosarcoma, and lymphoma.

Coat:  Thick, short, and glossy

Country of Origin:  Germany

Visit the American Kennel Club for breed standards and more information.

The origins of this breed are not exactly known, but believed to have been descended from a type of mastiff and possibly Irish Wolfhound.  Danes originally served as boar hunters, war dogs, and bull baiters.  The Germans refined the breed and declared it the national dog of Germany in 1876.

Today the Great Dane is more of a lover than a fighter.  The Dane retains a powerful protective instance for his family, but is very playful, affectionate, and patient.  The Dane enjoys children, but sometimes his size can be dangerous when leaning affectionately towards small children.  Great Dane's are very people oriented.

Exercise:  

Although the Great Dane is quite large, he does not require a lot of exercise.  The Dane is happy with the normal walk twice per day.  The Great Dane is happy indoors and enjoys just hanging out with his family.  Although the Dane does not require a lot of physical exercise, it is important to keep him mentally stimulated.  Without regular mental and physical stimulation, the Dane can become quite destructive.

Grooming:  

The Great Dane is an average shedder, and will require regular brushing, but the short coat is easy to care for.

Training:  

The Great Dane can be somewhat of a challenge to train.  The Dane is intelligent, but was bred to be an independent thinker.  Holding the Dane's attention requires creativity and high rewards in training.  Socialization is very important to start as a young puppy with Great Danes.

One of our dog pack, Caravaggio, is part Great Dane.

You can definitely see this breed in his size, but also his temperament.

Although Caravaggio is well trained (as all my pack is),

he does have an independent mind and can become easily distracted.

With the proper training however, this is easily managed.

Great Dane's are amazingly gentle, loving dogs,

and we very much enjoy having one in our pack.

Our Great Dane/ German Shepherd/ Lab mix Caravaggio (right)

helping puppy Dora learn some leash skills.

BML1--Class #6

Dogs from L to R:  Hope, Koa, Boone, Maybe, Devo, & Ogi.

Basic Manners Level One:

Positive Reinforcement Training

Energy Balance

Marker Word

No Reward Marker

Food Lure

Look/ Watch Me, Basic & the T position

Come when Called, 3 Steps & 3 Rules

Loose Leash Walking

Sit & Auto-Sit

Down

Up/ Stand

(Hand Signals)

Stay with Release Cue

Impulse Control

Leave It

Drop It

Class #6 of Basic Manners Level One is a review of all things learned.  We go over each cue and play different games to improve on each command.  At the end of class #6, each participant is given a certificate of completion.  Below are some pictures of the dogs working on "Stay."

Maybe.

Devo.

Boone.

Ogi.

REMEMBER to Keep Training Going:

Proper Exercise:  Every dog should be walked every day!

Good Relationship with the owner:  When you get frustrated, remember why you got your dog, he’s your buddy, he’s your pal.  Don’t take set-back’s personal.

Socialization:  It is very important to have a dog that is comfortable in as many different situations as possible.  Take your dog everywhere you can, but proceed at your dog’s pace.

Consistency:  Everyone in the household should have all the same rules, all the same cue words and commands, ALL THE TIME!

Generalizing:  Dogs do not generalize well.  It is important to practice everything you learn, everywhere you go.

Training Sessions:  Keep them short and sweet.  3-5 minutes a few times a day.

VIDEO: Teaching the "Leave It" Cue--Step One

Here is our new video...How to start teaching your dog the "Leave It" Command.

This video is the beginning to teaching this cue.  Stay tuned for more videos.

Training Terms Help

So you want to train your dog but where do you start?  Well knowing a little background about some common terms used in basic dog training will help.
(Also see other Common Training Terms.)

There are basically three essential elements to teaching a dog to learn. 
These are:  motivation, reinforcement, and punishment.

Motivation is a need (conscious or unconscious), desire, or drive that incites a dog to produce some behavior or action.  A dog must be properly motivated to change behavior.

Reinforcement are actions, events, or items that positively or negatively increase or eliminate a behavior.  There is positive reinforcement and negative reinforcement. 


Positive reinforcement basically means the dog works for you to get things he desires.  Positive reinforcement involves rewarding the dog the instant he performs the desired behavior. 
Negative reinforcement means the dog is working to avoid something the dog considers unpleasant.  Negative reinforcement is the removal of something unpleasant the instant the dog performs the desired behavior.

There are two types of reinforcement: 
1)  Unconditioned reinforcement
2) Conditioned reinforcement

An unconditioned reinforcer, or primary reinforcer, is something that is necessary for the dog's survival, or something the dog very much likes, and therefore, the dog does not need to learn that this thing is rewarding.  Not each unconditioned reinforcer will have the same value for each dog.  Some examples of unconditioned reinforcement include:  food, air, water, shelter, toys, praise, and petting.  The dog (NOT the owner or trainer) determines what their unconditioned reinforcers are.

A conditioned reinforcer, or secondary reinforcer, is something that does not inherently mean anything to the dog.  The dog learns to associate the conditioned reinforcer as a good thing.  Some examples of conditioned reinforcers include:  walks, food bag noise, toys, "good" or "yes," the sound of a clicker, and the doorbell.  The best example of teaching a dog a conditioned reinforcer is using the "good" or "yes" cue to mark behavior.  Using this cue at the instant your dog performs a desired behavior increases the communication between human and dog.  The dog learns to make a positive association between your marker word (good or yes) and a food reward.

Punishment is use of a penalty.  There is both positive and negative punishment. 


Positive punishment involves a negative consequence the moment the dog engages in an undesired behavior.  You are adding something negative. 
Negative punishment involves removing something the dog likes when the dog engages in an undesired behavior.  You are removing something the dog likes.

A helpful way to think about these things is this...positive means you are adding something...negative means something is being taken aways.


Dog Training Today

The popular method of dog training today is Positive Reinforcement.  This is a vast improvement from the history of dog training.  Into the 1950s and 1960s, it was common for dog trainers to use compulsion training methods, mainly positive punishment.  This meant that every time the dog performed incorrectly, the dog received a punishment.  Over the years and several studies later, we have learned that the use of positive reinforcement actually works faster and dogs retain the knowledge learned more easily.  Also, using positive reinforcement training produces an animal that is willing and excited to work for you, as opposed to one that is frightened or scared to make a mistake.  Such Good Dogs uses positive reinforcement training, combined with energy balance.




Energy Balance:
Such Good Dogs firmly believes that all living creatures must find the correct balance of energy to be both happy and healthy.  When training dogs, it is extremely important to be aware of your own energy.  Dogs pick up on our energy and what we may be feeling without us even realizing they have done so.  Further more, if you are unaware of your energy and try to train your dog when you are angry or frustrated, the dog will sense this and your training session will not go well.  In fact, you can actually set back progress of your training by doing so when you do not have the proper energy and mind-set.  To maintain proper energy balance, your dog must also have proper exercise.  A dog that has too much energy will not be able to pay attention for training.  Regular, daily exercise is vitally important for every dog.

So, if you are training or interacting with your dog and you feel yourself getting angry, upset, frustrated, nervous, or anxious...STOP, take a deep breath, and calm down.  Only then should you address the situation.

Trainer Tips--Good Behavior

Sometimes we get so focused on the bad things our dogs do we stop noticing the good things.  One helpful tip that I always try and focus on for all my classes...anytime your dog does what you want them to do during training, pretend its the best thing that's ever happened to you.  Sounds crazy, but its true.  The better you mark the good behaviors, the more likely the dog will engage in more good behaviors in the future.  This is especially true for any behaviors or cues that your dog has extra problems with.  For example, if your dog isn't so great at Sit, when the dog does Sit well, you should acknowledge that with a "Good Boy!  Good Girl! or Good Dog!"  Praising your dog with positive reinforcement in an upbeat, happy voice goes miles further than yelling at them when they do bad things.

Don't forget, praise, praise, praise for ALL good behaviors!!!

After the dog performs the desired behavior, treat while saying your marker word "Good/ Yes."

Lots of praise with an upbeat, happy voice.  Good girl!

Extra petting.

Extra petting and love for a job well done, especially for cues you are having trouble with.

Remember...it's the best thing that's ever happened to you :)

Training Philosophies

There are many different dog training methods and ideologies out there.  To help you get a little understanding and be better able to pick the right trainer for you and your dog, I have listed below the three basic types of dog training philosophies.


1) Positive-Only Trainer.
These trainers will only use positive reinforcement training methods.  Trainers in this category will NEVER use corrections or punishment in their training programs.  The standard for positive-only trainers is use of food rewards.


2)  Balanced Trainer.
A balanced trainer will use positive methods whenever introducing new behaviors, customarily rewarded with food or toys.  Physical corrections are only used when all other training methods have been tried and failed.  The balanced trainer rarely has use for corrections.  To shape new behaviors, the balanced trainer will use the No Reward Marker and occasional negative punishment (removal of a reward).  
I would consider myself a balanced trainer.  I am familiar with both compulsion training and positive reinforcement.  I have seen how amazingly well positive reinforcement works for both the dog and the owner, and I always use this method of training.  Only when all other training methods have been exhausted would I try harsh methods or punishment.


I also believe that being a balanced trainer means helping your clients get a well balanced dog.  
Such Good Dogs firmly believes that all living creatures must find the correct balance of energy to be both happy and healthy. When training dogs, it is extremely important to be aware of your own energy. Dogs pick up on our energy and what we may be feeling without us even realizing they have done so. Further more, if you are unaware of your energy and try to train your dog when you are angry or frustrated, the dog will sense this and your training session will not go very well.  In fact, you can actually set back progress of your training by doing so when you do not have the proper energy and mind-set.  Life is all about finding balance.  We can teach you how to find balance for you and your dog.


3)  Compulsion Trainer.
Trainers in this category have the attitude of, "do it because I said so."  Compulsion trainers use punishments such as leash corrections to not only introduce new cues, but to train and maintain new behaviors as well.  The only motivation for the dog to comply is to avoid correction.  Compulsion trainers often use Prong and choke collars in training.  I am happy to say that this method of training dogs is now considered the "old school" way of thinking.  I would not recommend trainers who only use compulsion training methods.  

Learning Theory

There are basically three essential elements to teaching a dog to learn.
These are:  motivation, reinforcement, and punishment.

Motivation is a need (conscious or unconscious), desire, or drive that incites a dog to produce some behavior or action.  A dog must be properly motivated to change behavior.

Reinforcement are actions, events, or items that positively or negatively increase or eliminate a behavior.  There is positive reinforcement and negative reinforcement.
Positive reinforcement basically means the dog works for you to get things he desires.  Positive reinforcement involves rewarding the dog the instant he performs the desired behavior.
Negative reinforcement means the dog is working to avoid something the dog considers unpleasant.  Negative reinforcement is the removal of something unpleasant the instant the dog performs the desired behavior.

Punishment is use of a penalty.  There is both positive and negative punishment.
Positive punishment involves a negative consequence the moment the dog engages in an undesired behavior.  You are adding something negative.
Negative punishment involves removing something the dog likes when the dog engages in an undesired behavior.  You are removing something the dog likes.

A helpful way to think about these things is this...positive means you are adding something...negative means something is being taken aways.