Sunday, November 1, 2009
Breed of the Month--Chinese Crested
Chinese Crested
Color: Any color or combination of colors.
Height: Males: 11-13 inches/ Females: 9-12 inches
Weight: Varies, no more than 12 lbs
Life Span: 10-12 years
Breed Health Concerns: Allergies, patellar luxation, dental problems, Legg-Calve-Perthes disease, and skin problems (hairless).
Coat: Two Types: 1) Hairless, has a silky, soft, flowing hair on head, feet, and tail.
2) Powderpuff, has a double coat with a short, silky undercoat, and a soft, straight outer coat.
Country of Origin: China/ Africa
Visit the American Kennel Club for breed standards and more information.
The hairless breeds of today have evolved from mutations that have occurred in past pariah-type puppy litters. With such a unique appearance in the dog world, they Chinese Crested came to be very popular in Africa, China, Mexico, and Spain.
Many people fall in love with the Chinese Crested because it is affectionate, lively, and playful. Proper socialization is very important in this breed to keep him comfortable with strangers and more outgoing. This breed likes to dig and climb. The Chinese Crested has a hare foot, making it able to hold food, toys, and even people.
Exercise:
Chinese Crested dogs get some of their energy out by following family members around in their daily routine, but do need a good walk daily as well.
Grooming:
Chinese Cresteds have no odor and are very clean. The hairless kind needs to be bathed on a regular basis as well as have oil and/or creme applied to help protect it's skin. The Powerpuff variety needs regular brushing, as the undercoat will become matted if not tended to. Both types are naturally resistant to ticks and fleas.
Training:
The Chinese Crested will comply with basic requests and responds well to positive training. Making training a game for the entire family will help this breed have fun and learn more quickly.
Friday, October 30, 2009
Monday, October 19, 2009
Types of Reinforcement
There are two types of reinforcement:
1) Unconditioned reinforcement
2) Conditioned reinforcement
An unconditioned reinforcer, or primary reinforcer, is something that is necessary for the dog's survival, or something the dog very much likes, and therefore, the dog does not need to learn that this thing is rewarding. Not each unconditioned reinforcer will have the same value for each dog. Some examples of unconditioned reinforcement include: food, air, water, shelter, toys, praise, and petting. The dog (NOT the owner or trainer) determines what their unconditioned reinforcers are.
A conditioned reinforcer, or secondary reinforcer, is something that does not inherently mean anything to the dog. The dog learns to associate the conditioned reinforcer as a good thing. Some examples of conditioned reinforcers include: walks, food bag noise, toys, "good" or "yes," the sound of a clicker, and the doorbell. The best example of teaching a dog a conditioned reinforcer is using the "good" or "yes" cue to mark behavior. Using this cue at the instant your dog performs a desired behavior increases the communication between human and dog. The dog learns to make a positive association between your marker word (good or yes) and a food reward.
1) Unconditioned reinforcement
2) Conditioned reinforcement
An unconditioned reinforcer, or primary reinforcer, is something that is necessary for the dog's survival, or something the dog very much likes, and therefore, the dog does not need to learn that this thing is rewarding. Not each unconditioned reinforcer will have the same value for each dog. Some examples of unconditioned reinforcement include: food, air, water, shelter, toys, praise, and petting. The dog (NOT the owner or trainer) determines what their unconditioned reinforcers are.
A conditioned reinforcer, or secondary reinforcer, is something that does not inherently mean anything to the dog. The dog learns to associate the conditioned reinforcer as a good thing. Some examples of conditioned reinforcers include: walks, food bag noise, toys, "good" or "yes," the sound of a clicker, and the doorbell. The best example of teaching a dog a conditioned reinforcer is using the "good" or "yes" cue to mark behavior. Using this cue at the instant your dog performs a desired behavior increases the communication between human and dog. The dog learns to make a positive association between your marker word (good or yes) and a food reward.
Friday, October 2, 2009
Breed of the Month--Collie
Collie
There are two types of Collies: Rough coat Collie, and Smooth coat Collie
Color: Tricolor, sable and white, blue merle and white, may have tan or white markings.
Height: Males: 22-26 inches/ Females: 20-24 inches
Weight: Males: 45-75 lbs/ Females: 40-65 lbs
Life Span: 14-16 years
Breed Health Concerns: hip dysplasia, progressive retinal atrophy, eye anomaly, and dermatomyositis.
Coat: Collie, Rough: Double coat with a furry, soft undercoat, and straight, harsh outer coat.
Coat: Collie, Smooth: Double coat with a furry, soft, dense undercoat, and a flat, hard, short outercoat.
Country of Origin: Great Britain
Visit the American Kennel Club for breed standards and more information.
Both the Smooth and Rough Collie have the same breed history and the same current breed standard. The Collie comes from centuries of of guarding and herding dogs that worked hard for their masters. Most people think of the fluffier Rough coat Collie when you mention the breed's name. The breed was made even more popular by the famous dog, Lassie, in 1954.
Their noble and intelligent nature makes both types of Collies excellent pets for families that will be loyal and fair to their dog, and never use harsh punishments. The Collie is known to be very loyal.
Exercise
The Collie requires plenty of daily exercise and enjoys going for long distances.
Grooming
Both the Smooth and Rough Collie require a good amount of grooming. Regular brushing is necessary, and in Rough coats, you must be aware of problem matts forming in the long fur. The Collie is a seasonal heavy shedder.
Training
If you approach training a Collie in a respectful and positive way, this breed is a joy to train. Collie's must be socialized from puppies to avoid them developing a shyness in the future. The Collie will greatly excel in activities such as agility, herding, obedience, and therapy.
Rough coat Collie
Smooth coat Collie (above & below)
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Breed of the Month--Super Mutts
A friend of ours travels around the country on a weekly basis. During his travels he has seen many things, but none as exciting as this one. He discovered a litter of puppies in California that they call, Super Mutts. These dogs are more along the lines of an African wild dog, or Australian dingo. These dogs are mixed with so many different types of breeds, they have gained the name, Super Mutt.
Although many people swear by their purebred dog, I am a huge fan of mutts (a mix of more than one breed type of dog). All my dogs throughout my life have been mutts. Mixed breed dogs are better-suited pets for many dog owners because of their general easy-going nature. Most mixed breed dogs tend to have less overall health problems as well.
This is our friend's "Super Mutt," named Trash.
Although many people swear by their purebred dog, I am a huge fan of mutts (a mix of more than one breed type of dog). All my dogs throughout my life have been mutts. Mixed breed dogs are better-suited pets for many dog owners because of their general easy-going nature. Most mixed breed dogs tend to have less overall health problems as well.
This is our friend's "Super Mutt," named Trash.
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
Conditioning Behavior
There are two behavior-conditioning styles: classical and operant conditioning.
Classical conditioning is basically a dog understanding a simple association. The most well-known illustration of this is "Pavlovian conditioning." We all remember the story of Pavlov's bell, salivation, food association. Basically Pavlov started ringing a bell before the dog was being fed. During classical conditioning, the dog learns that the bell leads to the smell of food, which leads to the dog salivating, because the dog then receives the food. After classical conditioning the dog responds to the bell by salivating, because he has learned to associate the sound with food. The dog is now anticipating food at the sound of the bell.
Operant conditioning is teaching a dog that this particular behavior, will have this particular consequence. This is something a dog must learn to do (sit and wait for food), as compared to something the dog would do naturally (like salivate for food). Sitting and waiting to be fed is not something a dog would do automatically, it is something they must learn to do. Because the dog does not receive the food when he does not sit, he learns that sitting and waiting to be fed will get him the food instead.
Classical conditioning is basically a dog understanding a simple association. The most well-known illustration of this is "Pavlovian conditioning." We all remember the story of Pavlov's bell, salivation, food association. Basically Pavlov started ringing a bell before the dog was being fed. During classical conditioning, the dog learns that the bell leads to the smell of food, which leads to the dog salivating, because the dog then receives the food. After classical conditioning the dog responds to the bell by salivating, because he has learned to associate the sound with food. The dog is now anticipating food at the sound of the bell.
Operant conditioning is teaching a dog that this particular behavior, will have this particular consequence. This is something a dog must learn to do (sit and wait for food), as compared to something the dog would do naturally (like salivate for food). Sitting and waiting to be fed is not something a dog would do automatically, it is something they must learn to do. Because the dog does not receive the food when he does not sit, he learns that sitting and waiting to be fed will get him the food instead.
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
Learning Theory
There are basically three essential elements to teaching a dog to learn.
These are: motivation, reinforcement, and punishment.
Motivation is a need (conscious or unconscious), desire, or drive that incites a dog to produce some behavior or action. A dog must be properly motivated to change behavior.
Reinforcement are actions, events, or items that positively or negatively increase or eliminate a behavior. There is positive reinforcement and negative reinforcement.
Positive reinforcement basically means the dog works for you to get things he desires. Positive reinforcement involves rewarding the dog the instant he performs the desired behavior.
Negative reinforcement means the dog is working to avoid something the dog considers unpleasant. Negative reinforcement is the removal of something unpleasant the instant the dog performs the desired behavior.
Punishment is use of a penalty. There is both positive and negative punishment.
Positive punishment involves a negative consequence the moment the dog engages in an undesired behavior. You are adding something negative.
Negative punishment involves removing something the dog likes when the dog engages in an undesired behavior. You are removing something the dog likes.
A helpful way to think about these things is this...positive means you are adding something...negative means something is being taken aways.
These are: motivation, reinforcement, and punishment.
Motivation is a need (conscious or unconscious), desire, or drive that incites a dog to produce some behavior or action. A dog must be properly motivated to change behavior.
Reinforcement are actions, events, or items that positively or negatively increase or eliminate a behavior. There is positive reinforcement and negative reinforcement.
Positive reinforcement basically means the dog works for you to get things he desires. Positive reinforcement involves rewarding the dog the instant he performs the desired behavior.
Negative reinforcement means the dog is working to avoid something the dog considers unpleasant. Negative reinforcement is the removal of something unpleasant the instant the dog performs the desired behavior.
Punishment is use of a penalty. There is both positive and negative punishment.
Positive punishment involves a negative consequence the moment the dog engages in an undesired behavior. You are adding something negative.
Negative punishment involves removing something the dog likes when the dog engages in an undesired behavior. You are removing something the dog likes.
A helpful way to think about these things is this...positive means you are adding something...negative means something is being taken aways.
Saturday, August 1, 2009
Breed of the Month--French Bulldog
French Bulldog
Color: Brindle, fawn, white, black, tan, liver
Height: 12 inches
Weight: Males: 28 lbs/ Females: 24 lbs
Life Span: 10-12 years
Breed Health Concerns: allergies, intervertebral disk disease, stenotic nares, hemivertebrae, brachycephalic syndrome, elongated soft palate.
Coat: Soft, smooth, short, fine, and glossy.
Country of Origin: France
Visit the American Kennel Club for breed standards and more information.
The bulldog originated in England. Craftsmen moved from England to France during the Industrial Revolution, bringing their toy bulldogs with them. Once in France, these dogs were mixed with several French breeds, creating what is now known as the French Bulldog. Around 1898 the argument over "rose ears" versus "bat ears" was won by the fans of the "bat ear" look and is a notable trait in the dogs today.
The French Bulldog, affectionately known by the breed's lovers as "Frenchies," is a wonderful playmate and companion. This dog is affectionate, inquisitive, and playful. Frenchies get along well with other dogs and pets of all kinds. This breed has a shortened muzzle and do have a tendency to drool and snore.
Exercise
The French Bulldog is more than happy to go with their owners anywhere, but does not require a large amount of daily exercise. The short muzzle of the dog can make it hard for him to breath and therefore should not be overexercised in the heat.
Grooming
The Frenchie needs only occasional brushing and is kept clean easily. The breed's wrinkly face must be kept clean to avoid possible infection.
Training
To get a Frenchie interested, training must be made especially worth while to the dog. The French Bulldog is good-hearted but can have a very stubborn streak. Harsh training is this breed is strictly discouraged, as the dog will just shut down. To keep a Frenchie interested you must do something to help bring out the extrovert in the dog. Socialization is very important for a Frenchie from a young puppy and throughout his life.
Monday, July 6, 2009
Canine Body Posture
Canine Body Posture
Dogs actually assume that we understand their communication system. Considering this, it is important to understand what a dog is saying to you with his body language. Recognizing these simple, and sometimes subtle dog signals can help train your dog more easily. Although dogs do communicate somewhat through vocalization and facial expressions, body language is most important. The following is a list of basic dog body postures.
Relaxed Body Posture
The dog's tail is down, but the head is up. The ears are up but not forward and the head is high.
Alert Body Posture
The dog's tail is straight out and he stands tall on his toes. His ears will be forward and the mouth closed.
A dog that is engaging in the body posture is indicating interest. This posture can be helpful to notice in training, because this posture means the dog is aware of something, but has yet to decide what to do about it. That's where you would come in.
Offensive Threat Posture
The dog's tail is up and stiff and he stands forward and tall on his toes. His hackles will be up, ears forward, and nose wrinkled. Look for the stiffness and stillness in the dog's body.
A dog that is demonstrating this posture is aggressive and ready for attack. This position will often be accompanies by a growl. When around a dog displaying this type of posture, avoid physical corrections and try and use a food reward to regain his focus.
Defensive Threat Posture
The dog's tail will be tucked, and the body lowered. His hackles will be up, ears back, and nose wrinkled. The dog's pupils will be dilated and the corners of his mouth back.
A dog engaging in this posture is being self-protective. Dogs displaying this posture are showing fear. These dogs would prefer to run away, but may bite if cornered or provoked.
Stress
The dog's tail will be down, ears back, and body lowered. The dog will be panting with the corners of the mouth back. He may sweat through his pads.
It is important to know when your dog is experiencing stress. When this happens during training, it is a sign to take a break, and then continue at a slower pace.
Passive Submission
The dog's tail will be tucked, his eyes looking away, and he will roll onto his back.
You often see this posture in young puppies greeting other dogs.
Active Submission

The dog's tail will be down, ears back, and the body lowered. The dog will lick at the corners of the mouth of the superior human or dog and make groveling movements with his forepaws.
It is actually a good thing to have a dog that is generally submissive. I reward submissive behavior with a nice belly rub.
(Dog on left in picture is showing Active Submission)
Play Bow
The dog's tail is up and wagging, ears up, with his mouth open. The dog's front end is lowered as if bowing.
The Play Bow indicates that a dog would like to play.
Dogs actually assume that we understand their communication system. Considering this, it is important to understand what a dog is saying to you with his body language. Recognizing these simple, and sometimes subtle dog signals can help train your dog more easily. Although dogs do communicate somewhat through vocalization and facial expressions, body language is most important. The following is a list of basic dog body postures.
Relaxed Body Posture
The dog's tail is down, but the head is up. The ears are up but not forward and the head is high.
Alert Body Posture
The dog's tail is straight out and he stands tall on his toes. His ears will be forward and the mouth closed.
A dog that is engaging in the body posture is indicating interest. This posture can be helpful to notice in training, because this posture means the dog is aware of something, but has yet to decide what to do about it. That's where you would come in.
Offensive Threat Posture
The dog's tail is up and stiff and he stands forward and tall on his toes. His hackles will be up, ears forward, and nose wrinkled. Look for the stiffness and stillness in the dog's body.
A dog that is demonstrating this posture is aggressive and ready for attack. This position will often be accompanies by a growl. When around a dog displaying this type of posture, avoid physical corrections and try and use a food reward to regain his focus.
Defensive Threat Posture
The dog's tail will be tucked, and the body lowered. His hackles will be up, ears back, and nose wrinkled. The dog's pupils will be dilated and the corners of his mouth back.
A dog engaging in this posture is being self-protective. Dogs displaying this posture are showing fear. These dogs would prefer to run away, but may bite if cornered or provoked.
Stress
The dog's tail will be down, ears back, and body lowered. The dog will be panting with the corners of the mouth back. He may sweat through his pads.
It is important to know when your dog is experiencing stress. When this happens during training, it is a sign to take a break, and then continue at a slower pace.
Passive Submission
The dog's tail will be tucked, his eyes looking away, and he will roll onto his back.
You often see this posture in young puppies greeting other dogs.
Active Submission

The dog's tail will be down, ears back, and the body lowered. The dog will lick at the corners of the mouth of the superior human or dog and make groveling movements with his forepaws.
It is actually a good thing to have a dog that is generally submissive. I reward submissive behavior with a nice belly rub.
(Dog on left in picture is showing Active Submission)
Play Bow
The dog's tail is up and wagging, ears up, with his mouth open. The dog's front end is lowered as if bowing.
The Play Bow indicates that a dog would like to play.
Thursday, July 2, 2009
Breed of the Month--Bedlington Terrier
Bedlington Terrier
Color: Blue and tan, blue, liver and tan, liver, sandy, sandy and tan
Height: Males: 16-17.5 inches/ Females: 15-16.5 inches
Weight: 17-23 lbs
Life Span: 11-16 years
Breed Health Concerns: copper toxicosis, cataracts, patellar luxation, retinal dysplasia, and renal cortical hypoplasia.
Coat: Thick, crisp, linty, with a mixture of soft and hard hair, tendency to curl on the face and head.
Country of Origin: Great Britain
Visit the American Kennel Club for breed standards and more information.
The Bedlington Terrier comes from the mining area north of England, and has the longest traceable pedigree of any terrier. The Bedlington was probably cross bred from a sighthound (Whippet) and a scent hound (Otterhound). These dogs were supposedly used by poachers and gypsies to catch game. The breed was originally known as Rothbury's Terrier (or Rothbury's Lamb). The Bedlington is capable of everything from swimming, to ratting, to running down hares. He became very important to miners who used them for rats living in the mines. The first Bedlington Terrier Club was formed in 1877. This dog's lovable and loyal nature made him popular in the company of ladies.
Today the Bedlington Terrier is described as having the body of a lamb with the heart of a lion. The Bedlington is intelligence, talented, and has plenty of exercise. As with many terrier breeds, the Bedlington does not easily turn off the warrior in him when threatened or challenged.
Exercise:
Bedlington's like to run and need several vigorous walks each day to stay happy.
Grooming:
These dogs shed very little, but their coats must be clipped regularly. Show dogs of this breed require extensive grooming.
Training:
The Bedlington is a quick learner who enjoys trying to figure out what the owner wants him to do. The terrier instincts keep this dog alert, but loyal.
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