Monday, March 22, 2010

Prong & Pinch Collars

The standard prong collar has blunt prongs designed to pinch the dog.  When giving a dog a correction using this collar, the interlocking metal links constrict, causing the prongs to pinch the dog's skin.  This collar is designed to suppress unwanted behavior by immediately causing discomfort to the dog.  To properly use this collar it must be fitted high up on the dog's neck, which most people don't realize.

I used to think this product was magical and used it on my dogs.  I soon learned that these collars are not a nice way to train your dog.  Positive reinforcement training does not use prong/pinch collars.  Using these collars is training your dog with punishment.

If you have a dog that does not walk well on leash and you need help, please do NOT get a prong collar.  Try an Easy-walk harness or head collar instead.

Using a prong/pinch collar on an aggressive dog can actually increase the aggressive problem.  These collars can easily be painful to the dog when misused.  Owners who misuse these collars can also cause  a collapsed windpipe and damage to the dog's neck.


Tuesday, March 2, 2010

Breed of the Month--German Shorthaired Pointer


German Shorthaired Pointer


Color:  Liver, liver and white spotted, liver and white ticked, liver roan, may have markings of tan.
Height:  Males:  23-26 inches/  Females:  21-25 inches
Weight:  Males:  55-70 lbs/ Females:  45-60 lbs
Life Span:  12-15 years

Breed Health Concerns:  epilepsy, hip dysplasia, bloat, von Willebrand disease, and eye problems.

Coat:  Short, dense undercoat, with a short, dense, rough, hard outer coat.  
Country of Origin:  Germany

Visit the American Kennel Club for breed standards and more information. 

Germans used many types of bird dogs for hunting as far back as the 1700s.  By combining several types of tracking and pointing dogs, a new breed of versatile gun dogs began emerging by the 1800s.  The German Shorthaired Pointer is believed to be a combination of English pointers and the German Bird Dog.  Additions to the bloodline over time helped make the breed into a dog that would excel at water work, tracking, and retrieving.  

The German Shorthaired Pointer is very excited and enthusiastic about most anything.  Whether its hunting, going for a walk, or just hanging out with his family, the GSP is happy to follow.  The GSP is great with children, but has an intensely high energy level.

Exercise
The more exercise the German Shorthaired Pointer can get, the better.  The GSP needs to run.  To help drain this breed's energy, many owners join some sort of activity such as:  agility, obedience, hunting, or flyball.  

Grooming
The GSP's coat requires very little care to keep it looking nice.  This breed loves water and the many swimming escapades will require frequent bathing.  Take special care to keep the GSP's ears clean and free from infection.

Training
The German Shorthaired Pointer is very people oriented and eager to please, making the breed fairly easy to train.  Combine this breed's training with high value rewards like running, and use brief but positive training sessions to keep his attention and get the best results possible.




Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Head Collars

Head Collars

There are many dog products out there to help assist humans in training their dogs.  Head collars are an excellent example of a tool you can use to help train a dog.  Remember that all these things are tools to assist in training, not something to get instead of training.

When you control the direction of a dog's head, you are more easily able to control the direction of the dog's body.

Head collars are helpful because they can give the human a high level of control while using far less physical exertion.  Many times head collars are mistaken for muzzles.  Only gentle pressure is necessary when using a head collar to teach a simple cue.  These are self-correcting collars for the dog, and one of the most humane and safest of training tools.  It is strange for a dog to put a head collar on for the first time.  It is best to let the dog slowly get used to it.  Start by holding the head collar and a treat.  Hold the treat in such a way that the dog has to place his head through the head collar in order to get the treat.  The first few times you allow your dog to wear the head collar, do so for only a few short minutes, making sure the dog has positive experiences in this time.  Then take it off until the next session.  After the dog begins to become comfortable with having the head collar on, use in training.  Do not unintentionally make your dog afraid of the head collar by moving too fast in its use.

Although there are many types of head collars, most people recognize one of the following three kinds:
1) Control Ease
2) Halti
3) Gentle Leader

All three of these types of head collars have a strap that goes over the dog's nose, to lead the dog.  Many times people have trouble understanding how to put these contraptions on their dog.  I recommend taking your dog to your local pet shop and actually trying a few out on your dog.  Remember to STAY CALM.  Again, have your treats so that you can pair the head collar with something positive for the dog.  If you have problems, ask an employee for help.  Read the directions before attempting to place the head collar on your dog.

All of these head collars offer your dog freedom of mouth movement, unless the dog pulls on the leash.  Your dog is still able to pant, eat, and drink, which is a big plus for your dog.  The head collar also offers the human the positive benefit of control.

This type of tool can be helpful for many owners, but I especially recommend them for people with very wild dogs that like to drag their owners, jump, or aggress towards other dogs or people.

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Doggles

Our dogs, like most everyone's dogs, like to stick their heads out the window in the car.  It's exciting outside the car window with all those interesting and new smells going by.  It is actually not very good for you to allow your dog to stick their head out the window of a moving car.  Many times dogs can get debris stuck in their eyes and can cause serious problems.  Our answer to the problem:  Doggles.  These are goggles made for dogs, and they're pretty cool.  Here are some pictures of our dogs sporting their new Doggles.

Nekita & Caravaggio with their Doggles.


Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Breed of the Month--Rhodesian Ridgeback


Rhodesian Ridgeback


Color:  Red wheaten to light wheaten
Height:  Males:  25-27 inches/  Females:  24-26 inches
Weight:  Males:  75-85 lbs/  Females:  65-70.5 lbs
Life Span:  10-12 years

Breed Health Concerns:  hypothyroidism, elbow and hip dysplasia, cataracts, dermoid sinus, congenital deafness, and cysts.

Coat:  Dense, sleek, short, glossy
Country of Origin:  Zimbabwe (formerly Rhodesia)

Visit the American Kennel Club for breed standards and more information.

This breed is very well named for its symmetrical ridge that runs along the dog's spine.  Many breeds contribute to the Rhodesian Ridgeback including: the Khoikhoi dog, Mastiff, Pointer, Greyhound, and Bloodhound.  The breed was recognized by the American Kennel Club in 1959.

The Rhodesian Ridgeback is an excellent hunter, loyal, and an exceptional companion.  Rhodesian Ridgebacks are very loyal and protective of their family.

Exercise:
The Rhodesian Ridgeback is very curious and must be given regular vigorous exercise to remain happy.  This breed is powerful and athletic.

Grooming:
Only the occasional brushing and rub with a hound glove is necessary.

Training:
Many people think Rhodesian to be stubborn, but they just bore easily.  Training must remain interesting and challenging.  Puppy socialization for the Rhodesian Ridgeback is essential.

The well know Ridge the breed was named for.





Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Leadership

When adding any new dog to your family, leadership is very important.

To be a good leader to your dog, you must be strong, consistent, non-confrontational, and dependable.  Dogs become extremely stressed without a leader.  A dog will only fill the family leader position if there is no strong leader for him to look to.  Dogs can become very stressed when forced into the leadership role, however some dominant temperament-type dogs can manipulate their way into this role.  The dog that does this will use aggression to maintain his leadership status.  Obviously, this is not something we want.

Duties of the Leader:
1)  Establish the rules
2)  Enforce the rules
3)  Maintain social order

For many past centuries, dogs have had a job within the family unit.  Some of these jobs include:  hunting, protection, herding, pulling carts, eliminating vermin, and locating lost people.  Over the years the dog has become a non-working member of the family.  Humans unknowingly treat dogs as leaders every day.  These things include:  letting a dog eat as much as he wants whenever he wants, receiving constant free attention, and being able to demand sleep time, affection, and alone times.

It is vitally important for the human to establish and enforce house rules from day one!

Relationship Exercises can help maintain your strong leadership role while building a strong bond of trust between you and your dog.  When you control your dog's access to everything, you can more easily train your dog while also keeping him (and your belonging) safe.

Feeding.  Leaders always eat first.  I encourage people to have their dinner and then feed the dog(s) afterwards.  By doing so, your dog is not only learning to wait nicely (no begging), but learning to work for something he likes.  He is earning his food, not just getting it for free.  Dogs that get things for free tend to develop many different kinds of unwanted behaviors.
So when feeding your dog, make him sit and wait while you put the bowl down.  I also always require my dogs to "watch me" (look in my eyes), before being rewarded with food.  Also, do not free feed your dog.  A dog should be fed twice every day.  If the dog does not eat the food within 30 minutes, remove the food.  The dog will not get fed again until the regularly scheduled next mealtime.

Sleeping.  I strongly try to discourage people from allowing their dogs in their beds.  Start your training by only allowing the dog on the floor and his dog bed.  If you initially teach a dog he is not allowed on the places humans usually rest, you are reinforcing your leadership role.
Also, I encourage people with young puppies to sometimes remove them from wherever they are sleeping.  Dogs can become possessive over their favorite sleeping spots and this can sometimes lead to an aggressive response.  Every so often, move your dog from their current sleeping spot.  Positively reward any calm behavior the dog offers when doing so.

Free Time.  Access to freedom throughout your house is definitely something that should be earned by your dog.  When first bringing a new dog into your house, always start with an on-leash tour.  Go through the house, only entering a new room when the dog is calm, waiting, and paying attention to the leader on the other end of the leash.  The person should always enter the new space first.  New dogs and puppies must be consistently supervised and should only be allowed limited access when not being watched.  A new dog or puppy that is left along should either be crated or left in a small area where they can't get into any trouble.  Remember part of training is preparation and maintenance.  If you leave your dog in his crate with his toys, he can't really do wrong.  If you just leave him locked a bathroom with regular bathroom items around, you will have a big mess to clean when you return (any possibly a very sick little puppy).  Remember to protect your dog (and your things) by planning ahead.  Get down on the floor on your stomach and look around.  Those are all little things down there that you don't normally think of that's staring your dog right in the face.  Electric cords, poisonous items, and choking hazards are probably lurking just under your nose.

These are just a few items and examples of how to take proper leadership over your dog.

Monday, January 4, 2010

Breed of the Month--Greyhound


Greyhound


Color:  White, black, fawn, brindle, blue, red, fallow, or any of these broken with white.
Height:  Males:  27-30 inches/  Females:  26-28 inches
Weight:  Males:  65-75 lbs/  Females:  60-70 lbs
Life Span:  10-12 years

Breed Health Concerns:  thyroid problems, bloat, osteosarcoma.

Coat:  Close lying, firm, short, smooth coat
Country of Origin:  Great Britain

Visit the American Kennel Club for breed standards and more information.

As far back as 4th century BCE, Egyptian tombs show drawings of dogs very similar to the appearance  of todays Greyhounds and Salukis.  Sighthounds became very popular over the next several centuries and the breed was eventually refined in Great Britain.
Greyhounds are extremely fast runners and can reach speeds up to 45 mph.  Racing Greyhounds has been popular for 100s of years.
Even though the Greyhound is a good hunter, they are playful yet docile, compassionate, and easy to manage.  Greyhounds have an extremely high prey drive and should never be trusted off leash.

Exercise:
Surprisingly Greyhounds do not need as much exercise as you would expect.  Even though they can run faster than any other dog, a regular high-energy walk every day will keep him happy.  Greyhounds do enjoy being able to run (in a safe enclosed area) and owners would do well to indulge their dog in this respect.

Grooming:
The short coat of the Greyhound needs barely and brushing, but requires occasional rubbing with a currycomb or hound glove.

Training:
To prevent fearfulness, Greyhounds should be socialized at an early age.  Positive reinforcement training is necessary to properly train a Greyhound.  The easily take to using a food lure in training.  It can be somewhat difficult to teach the Greyhound to sit.  His large but lean size can make this position somewhat uncomfortable.









Tuesday, December 29, 2009

No Reward Marker

A No Reward Marker is a signal or cue to a dog that is paired with punishment each time the dog gives an incorrect response.  This marker should motivate the dog to try something else, and stop presenting the current behavior, or mistake.

The best example of using a No Reward Marker is simply saying an "Uh-oh" when the dog makes a mistake, and trying again.  It is important to remember not to get frustrated when your dog makes a mistake.  Stay calm, try again.

When we teach our dogs a clear system of communicating with us, we can easily point out the behavior we are looking for.  Dogs experience the world quite differently from humans.  Dogs communicate mainly through body language and some small vocalizations, and learn through their senses of hearing and smell.  Never assume your dog just knowns what behavior is good or bad.  We must clearly communicate with our dog what we expect from them, and mark behaviors we like.

Thursday, December 17, 2009

Tail Blanket

My dogs seem to cuddle more than you would think any dogs ever would.

Today's cuddling question:  Will your tail help keep me warm?



Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Breed of the Month--Jindo



Jindo


Color:  Brindle, red fawn, white, gray, black, black and tan.
Height:  Males:  19.5-21.5 inches/  Females:  17.5-19.5 inches
Weight:  Males:  40-50 lbs/  Females:  33-42 lbs
Life Span:  12-14 years

Bread Health Concerns:  none reported

Coat:  Double coat, dense, soft undercoat and a stiff, medium-length outercoat.
Country of Origin:  Korea


Although there is no certain history for the Jindo, it is believed that the Jindo has existed on Jindo Island off of Korea.  In Jindo county, the Jindo Dog Research and Testing Center believes that this breed is a native hunting dog that has existed there going back millions of years.  Korea passed a Jindo Preservation Ordinance in 1962 to protect the breed.  When the Olympics were held in Seoul Korea in 1988, a Jindo walked in the opening ceremony.

Although the Jindo is energetic and independent, he is an extremely loyal dog and enjoys being a constant part of the family dynamic.  The Jindo must be given proper exercise and mental stimulation, he is very energetic and likes to be outdoors as much as possible.

Exercise:
The Jindo needs plenty of daily exercise and prefers to be outdoors.  Although the Jindo does not care for water, if properly trained he can make an excellent companion for biking, running, or hiking.

Grooming:
The Jindo needs only occasional brushing except for times of heavy seasonal shedding.

Training:
Consistency, patience, and positive reinforcement are all important to properly train a Jindo.  Socialization is very important.  Getting angry or frustrated when trying to train a Jindo will get you nowhere.




Yes...this is a Jindo with a Lion
(Korean Zoo, 2006)